Saturday, June 19, 2021

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Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Sander Lak made his official menswear debut from an upper hall of the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt and I love this Opéra Bastille, where the stunning view out to Paris was nearly panoramic. It was a not-so-subtle reminder that today’s show also marked his first outside of New York, where he is now among the brightest stars of the city’s Fashion Week. Scheduled after Loewe and before Thom Browne, Lak presented both the men’s Fall capsule, now available to buy; the new Spring collection; plus some womenswear and if you didn’t know any better, you’d assume Sies Marjan has been on the Paris calendar all along. “There are an elevation and tougher competitive spirit in Paris; but in the end, I was just thinking about what is the best work I can make the most beautiful version of whatever it is I’m trying to translate,” he said, with impressive composure. That “whatever” was expressed by Erykah Badu’s “I Want You,” an extra-long track from 2003 that oozes anxious longing and intensifying soul. It could also be felt in rounded expanses of male décolleté, outerwear spanning skin tones, knitwear underpinnings, and tied waists that could be undone with a single pull. That “whatever” was Lak addressing male sexuality in a highly nuanced way. “What can you show off the male body that isn’t necessarily porn or sex or gay or straight?” he said. “It’s this idea of nudity while fully dressed.” In parallel, though, he also seemed determined to give the pieces a more elevated positioning. Chromatic leather jackets some embossed with a croc-effect unstructured trench coat in deep hues and sensuous constructions of silk not unlike his women’s designs got this point across. Lak, in any case, wasn’t making a radical statement for this coming out so much as a deeply personal one. “I put everything into my work, and it’s about having to expose yourself.” It’s rare to hear a designer discuss his or her own emotional vulnerability in the moments before or after a show; and yet this is what gives Sies Marjan a resonance beyond his sumptuous explorations of texture or color. Now if we have ascertained that 110 million dollars of spending have occurred in the current year, that doesn’t mean we have determined that we have a 110 million dollars in currency, because a given amount of money can be used for spending over and over. In fact the proper way to calculate the amount of spending is the take the average number of times each unit of the money supply is used for spending in that year (the velocity of money V) times the face value of the total amount of money in the money supply Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt The Australian pearls strung around the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt also I will do this necks of Justin O’Shea’s models were absolute whoppers but nothing compared to the size of the balls required to wear this collection. With SSS World Corp, O’Shea is presenting a wardrobe for a specific slice of masculinity of which he is 100 percent a member. Totally (apparently) self-confident, highly body-conscious, and at least in gesture hedonistically inclined, it’s probably a great place to be. It also helps if you have a beard. Some of O’Shea’s models were so O’Shea-like you momentarily suspected they were O’Shea. Any guests enjoying an afternoon moment in the suites above us would have been startled by the “Ace of Spades”–topped soundtrack that rattled around the courtyard garden of the Ritz as the guys rolled across the grass, all barrel-chested braggadocio, in the opening section of suiting. Cut in purposefully early ’80s tones of mink and brown and sometimes patterned by jacquard or enhanced by piping or sequin at the lapel, these were cut high-skirted to display the result of all those squat reps and protein shakes and featured a flared pant shape. Once our bad boys had finished their sartorial strut, they retired to the boudoir in a peignoir featuring Motörhead’s longhorn Satanic skull logo (a collab piece) before re-emerging in a tracksuit or series of short-short and cabana jacket ensembles teamed with the same pimpily color-clashed loafer and hosiery combos from the first time around. One of these featured a very cheeky license-plate print whose registrations listed some of the inspirations O’Shea had turned to when building this collection, including American Gigolo–era Giorgio Armani. Come the close and O’Sheathe real O’Shea at last emerged, on Harley-Davidson’s long-developed first ever all-electric motorcycle, the LiveWire, which looked pretty fantastic. Speaking pre-show about Motörhead’s inimitable lead singer Lemmy, O’Shea had said: “His ideology was very much in line with that of Triple S. It’s like ‘I’m just going to whatever I want and whatever happens is fine and just that’s the way it’s going to be.’ And that’s a great idea of life.” Not wrong. If one decided to measure all wealth on the wealth axis in “real” terms, then the “inflation adjusted value” or “buying power” or “real value” of the savings that is the preservation of investment would be different than when it was first spent. It would still be the same money, in the same amount. but that same money would be worth less in “real” terms at the end of the given time period, than at the beginning, if prices changed over that period, i.e., if there was inflation. This is because inflation is actually a measure of what really did happen, not what the system of two independent variables allows to be described. They take a known amount of spending and total wealth sold at one point in time, and compare it to a known amount of spending and known about of total wealth sold, at another point in time. Notice that is measuring only wealth sold, not all wealth. That is where inflation fits in. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt In keeping with the Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt Furthermore, I will do this festive, uplifting mood embedded in the house of McCartney, both collections were presented tonight during Milan Men’s opening day with a party in the enchanting garden of an old Milanese palazzo. But the event had a provocative edge: Models mingled with a collective of young activists performing a peaceful protest and chanting slogans on climate change awareness. Ribbons made of upcycled archival materials were flowing in the wind and could be personalized with messages for loved ones; they’ll be donated to a local design school to make sure that there’ll be zero waste. McCartney was radiant: “If you want to buy something these days, buy something that isn’t killing your planet!” she said. “If you have a fashion platform, if you have a voice, take responsibility and do something more than just a pretty color or a pretty hemline right now. It’s time to do something.” It’s simply not possible to disagree with her call to action. Together they came up with the round pattern of a sun, which became Resort’s distinctive print: “It’s the circular weather, it’s the clouds, it’s the rain; the sun is breathing, blowing wind,” said McCartney. “But it’s also a little bit trippy, a little bit ’90s, a sort of dance-trance vibe.” Stefan Cooke and his partner Jake Burt have been so applauded since they stepped onto the fashion stage that they’ve had a funny sensation that they’re still role-playing the part of what “designers” are meant to be. The spotlight trained on what Cooke and Burt do is well deserved: the believable young masculinity their collections portray, its basis in inventing techniques that recast the structure of familiar garments like the wonder they bring to the humble argyle sweater and their playful knack for trompe l’oeil prints. All this, and a precocious talent for creating stuff that is so clearly wearable. So, anyway: The wunderkind double act thought about backstage theater and costume as a theme for the first stand-alone Stefan Cooke show. “Really, it goes back to costume, to acting to us learning how to be someone over the last 15 months,” said Burt. “It’s like us, really, people think you’re a certain way,” Cooke added. “And the reality is, we’re still living in a flat with two other graduates.” Total wealth, a measure of wealth, and net production could be measured any way you want, in “nominal” or “real” terms. Since wealth is measured on a different axis, even though savings that is the preservation of investment is a nominal measure, the measure of wealth doesn’t have to be. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt It goes without saying that Stella McCartney is a passionate nature lover, so what better way to have a conversation with her than in a lush, quiet garden in Milan’s city center, surrounded by magnolias, wisterias climbing around trees, and chirping birds? “Let’s just forget fashion for a moment and savor all the Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt and I love this natural beauty around us and talk about flowers!” she said. Flowers were actually very much part of her Resort collection, which she named Forces For Nature. Hand-drawn bouquets were printed on light cloqué summer dresses in delicate tones of peony, wisteria, and primrose, as if they had just been picked up in a field or in a bluebell wood in spring, during one of the weekends she loves to spend in the countryside with her family. “It’s always the best time,” she said. It also goes without saying that McCartney isn’t afraid of challenges: “I’m a big believer in change,” she said. “When something is getting too comfortable, I tend to feel uncomfortable.” Her company is undergoing a sort of mutation, becoming independent after having to be part of the Kering Group for so many years. It’s an energizing time for the designer her pioneering work on sustainable fashion has set the bar high for the industry, not only helping to raise awareness but also showing that sustainability and a healthy business can go together. For Resort, her approach has become more overt: “Normally you don’t see what we do in terms of manufacturing conscientiousness,” she explained. “All the efforts we make in doing what we do are in the product, not on the product. This season I wanted to make it more visible.” Enter Everything Is Illuminated’s best-selling author Jonathan Safran Foer, who, feeling a kindred spirit in McCartney, sent her his book Eating Animals a few years ago. “I was blown away,” she said. A friendship ensued and now a collaboration, which has been years in the making. Safran Foer has a new book called We Are The Weather which will be out in September: “So I said to Jonathan, ‘Why don’t I put into fashion what it is you’re putting into words?” Just a comment that for total wealth on the wealth axis, one can try to value it by estimating the value of each part of the wealth to get one number, or one can divide it up like an inventory and try to value each category. Net production then might be an accounting of what the current period of economic activity would do to each category, instead of having net production just being a positive or negative number added to or subtracted from total wealth. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt I’m Nacho Valentine shirt So what was going on with the I’m nacho Valentine shirt What’s more,I will buy this black felt fireman hats, old-school police hats, and jockey caps? Why did so many models wear waistcoats that looked like they’d been forcibly wrenched to the left of the body in a bar fight? And the kangaroo pocket pleat-bib shirt smocks? What was with Mickey Mouse? Does Tom Ford say long johns are an outerwear option now when did you get that memo? “This is all just my style,” said Takahiro Miyashita, his expression obliquely refracted through his John Lennon glasses after this interesting show. The collection seemed to be a kind of imaginative boyhood view of tropes of uniform the clothes that authority figures wear all messed up by a purposely blurred focus. There was a heavy gestalt feeling at play, yet the parts that made up the sum were in fact the meat and potatoes of this richly blended stew of auto-referential menswear. This was a collection based upon the aspirations of manhood we aspire to when immature, eroded by the knowledge gained through maturity. It was about lost love squandered and idiocy. Yes, it was also about a collaboration with Converse that introduced a new pimp-soled postmodern expression of Chuck. The collection was called Duet, but it was really a series of duets between Miyashita and his references. Between them, they created a handsome, soaring chorus in which the disappointment inherent in aspiring to fit into the uniform of masculine codes and then falling short of their impossible standards, hung long and slow in the air. Miyashita called this “a love song for fashion” and it was real love, true love, tough love. With externally worn underwear baring your soul, Soloist style. Textile company Albini collaborated with the designers to create a deckchair-striped cotton poplin which had a vaguely penitentiary feeling in all-over outfits for men. And then there was that catnip slogan tank-tee. It was taken directly from the shirt in a photo by Stanley Stellar of an attendee at 1995’s Wigstock Festival in New York, and those inverted-commas so hot right now made it especially funny. But if this show represented “fashion” or just fashion in Milan this afternoon, then it was pretty hard to hate. The first part, the savings that is the preservation of investment does not represent any change in the level of wealth. Reducing spending will not, in and of itself, cause any reduction in the level of wealth. This is because whether a given amount of money is used for spending or not, it still exists in the same amount at the end of the given time period. Buy this shirt:  I’m Nacho Valentine shirt I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt The canopy-free parasols were a meteorologically ironic insertion into this typically sumptuous Thom Browne show, given the I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt Also,I will get this punishing heat in the glass-roof École des Beaux-Arts this afternoon. They were just one small part of a theatrical runway fantasy, in which Browne—recast as Monsieur Brun in his show notes imagined himself as a host at what he called a Versailles country club. Playing Brun was no less than James Whiteside, one of American Ballet Theatre’s principal dancers, who emerged palely powdered with ceruse and tricolor blue bee-stung lips, wearing a high-cut seersucker tutu. He cut a marvelous swath as he prepared for his garden party. This involved overseeing the preparation of 10 “statues,” which were in fact 10 very game models clad in horizontally enormous 2-D trompe l’oeil renderings of the 3-D outfits worn beneath them, which were short suits in various shades of seersucker accessorized with seersucker footballs, basketballs, and baseballs. They were shod in black and white brogued basketballs topped by pulled-high mismatched sports socks. Their outfits were revealed by attendants in sport shorts, pointy-toe corespondent shoes, and Browne-skinny jackets whose skirts barely brushed the matching codpiece/jockstrap also worn below. All this, mind you, before the first look of the collection. Browne’s guests strode onto his metaphorical lawn with more correspondents, these with a curved 2 inches or so exposed inset heel that elevated the ball of the foot above the flat sole beneath it. The outfits, like the latticed football helmet worn by one of the attendants, made lavish use of the wide-to-each-side silhouette created by Marie Antoinette era pannier dresses. In the pieces adorned with prep-staple marine patching, there was another irony in the fashion interplay of whale and whalebone (happily, though, no whale tail). Against that broadening, Ying tugged the narrowing yang of corsetry, from which were suspended literally drop-waist skirts. Pretty much everything was seersucker, sometimes patched, sometimes fringed, sometimes embroidered but always seersucker. Buy this shirt:  I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt If the I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt and I will buy this term seersucker suit makes you cringe, Snyder’s solid mauve version will easily change your mind; in fact, you may not even recognize it as seersucker. Without the usual country club stripes, it has a great, crumbly texture, and is light and crisp enough to wear in August. Snyder even made a black seersucker tuxedo, with the lapels and waistband in lustrous satin. A particularly irreverent groom might wear it to his wedding as it was styled here: with Birkenstock sandals. Titled The Ride, Tod’s Spring collection revolved around the idea of dynamism, speed, and movement, taking elements from the world of travel streamlined to a minimalist approach, suggesting urban velocity without any literal references. A sense of lightness was underlined throughout, with featherweight leather taking center stage and technical sporty fabrics treated with agility and ease. A new version of the leather biker was the collection’s pièce de résistance, cut lean and sleek, with a double-striped motif in contrasting colors running on the sides in keeping with Tod’s recurring signature graphics. A utilitarian approach was there in a technical multi-pocketed vest and field jackets; a safari jacket and a soft suede car coat in earth tones introduced a feel of far-away, exotic landscapes. Playing on contrasts, a more tailored offering provided an alternative to the collection’s overall sporty vibe, introducing an elegant urban feel with a playful preppy touch. Checkered jacquard was used as an all-over motif for a three-piece city ensemble of matching blazer, pants, and duster. Suits were cut with a regular fit and classic proportions, the most covetable being an indigo mixed-wool double-breasted example mimicking a denim texture. A new sneaker capsule kept Tod’s shoe selection up-to-date, while the famous Gommino was given a new lease of life with a wrap-around rubber shell enveloping the super-soft loafer. In the macroeconomy, we have spent, of a certain amount, creating income for the recipients of that spending in the same amount. This is gross income, as we are including all transfers of ownership of money for a purpose. And the accounting of this spending does not describe in any way shape or form any change in the level of wealth since all it describes is wealth in the form of money having its ownership be transferred from one person or entity to another. And we have added another element to the definition of the savings I am calling “net production” that does describe changes in type and amounts of wealth. Buy this shirt:  I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt Todd Snyder was the I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt In addition,I will do this head of men’s design at J.Crew in 2008 when the brand opened its “Liquor Store” on a quiet corner in Tribeca. It was a bar turned men’s shop that quickly became a destination for the younger, cooler, more downtown kind of J.Crew guy. In retrospect, it was also an early indicator of experiential retail. With its velvet furniture, dark wood paneling, and vintage chandeliers, it was a place you could actually, you know, hang out—and maybe pick up a cashmere sweater or varsity jacket, too. When Snyder heard the store was closing earlier this year, he called the owner, presented his ideas for revamping the shop, and eventually signed a lease. Buy this shirt:  I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt The show ended with a series of Hilfiger Collection looks that included all the I am a grumpy old lady I am allergic to stupidity shirt But I will love this designer’s most beloved preppy motifs: Bermuda shorts, nautical prints, Oxford stripes, and of course the Star-Spangled Banner. Even still, the brand is charting new territory where it counts: 75% of the collection was made using more sustainable production methods, including organic cotton, recycled fabric, and low-impact denim washes. With his 35th anniversary on the horizon, Tommy Hilfiger is in a retrospective mood. For Spring 2020, the brand’s original crest was writ large on classic striped button-downs and archival pieces that have been updated in time for the celebrations, including cream and white varsity jacket. Peek inside one of the reissued men’s peacoats and you’ll find a refresher on the provenance of that distinctive 1985 motif, a combination of lion, laurel, and sword, printed on the lining. For millennial men and women drawn to the designer’s throwback styles, this will be a succinct lesson in fashion history. Preppy values remain at the heart of what Hilfiger does—the label’s logo is a riff on traditional sailing flags, after all. The most compelling reworkings of those codes came through in the collection’s nautical bent, in charming maritime scarf dresses tied with ribbon, flag-print pajama suits, and seafaring parkas. Red, white, and blue have always been the core colors in the designer’s vision of sportswear, and there were stars and stripes of every kind woven through his new offering, starting with a graphic star-spangled navy and white midi skirt and ending with a traditional American flag sweater. There on the rail, tucked alongside that fleshy pink zebra jacquard jacket, were the items IRL. A quick going over established that even though these looked like yoga pants, they were, more strictly, pieces of long-legged underwear—the button-free fly detail made this abundantly clear. Ford, sadly, was not present at this presentation, but he had provided the next best thing: a Ford-penned press release brimming with cogitations upon the season ahead. There, near the bottom, was the key decree: “Long underwear in abstract camouflage prints is worn as casualwear and replaces the training pant this season.” Boom. In one apparently nonchalant sentence, Tom Ford might just have empowered long johns as outerwear. Don’t believe it? Past form suggests that what Tom says, goes. Welcome to the 2020s. Keynes realized that the best type of spending is the type of spending that directly pays for activities that produce more wealth. But he also realized, that if such spending were not forthcoming, and we were at less than full employment, that any spending increase, via its multiplier effect will still lead to increased production. Buy this shirt:  I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt It feels really personal to me,” said Robert Cavalli of his Florentine dandy-meets–British punk Spring collection. Indeed. What’s more personal than staging a presentation at your mother’s home? If the Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this mother in question is Eva Cavalli, then expect the home to be lavish. Her Florentine apartment, ensconced in a noble palazzo in the heart of the old city, boasts a magnificent secret garden, lush with century-old trees overlooking an ancient monastery and a church. Models and guests were lounging on the lawns, seemingly without a care in the world. At his label Triple RRR, the young designer is honing a languid aesthetic infused with an underground vibe. He has a penchant for a decadent Renaissance mood and favors opulence of fabrications and flamboyant yet elegant silhouettes, which he undercuts with irreverence and a flair for subversion. His signature robes de chambre in silk satin were worn over denim and with combat boots, and strict British-inspired tailoring was smoothed with almost feminine accents, as in ribbon belts cinching the waists of elongated blazers. Slender suits were given a sensuous finish via sumptuous mauve silk moiré, while a Prince of Wales jacquard suit was printed with red tigers and esoteric symbols. A little homage to Vivienne Westwood never hurts. It’s well known that the Cavalli family is fond of keeping a menagerie of exotic animals as domestic pets (think snakes, monkeys, iguanas); the young Robert doesn’t stray from tradition. He drew inspiration from his 25-year-old parakeet, Tommaso, the presentation’s guest of honor, whose colorful plumage was reproduced as a painterly print on a denim jacket and matching pants, or on a liquid silk robe coat, worn with a pale blue metallic leather biker. But beyond his family legacy, Cavalli is carving a place for himself in the fashion arena. If he keeps true to his quite personal mix of romantic, sensual rebelliousness, it’ll be interesting to follow his label’s future steps. So this shows Keynes’ awareness that in reality spending does not represent the depletion of wealth. He realized that the solution for production shortages in a situation where we have un- or underutilized resources, (including un- or underemployed people), is to increase spending, not to decrease spending. He realized that the increased spending will, for the most, part lead to increased employment of resources and increased net production of wealth. He showed that in such a situation, due to the effect of producing new wealth and preserving current wealth, increased spending can cause increased total wealth, and a higher standard of living, and improved quality of life. Buy this shirt:  Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt The flow of fashion culture from the Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt also I will do this West to the male youth of Asia turned in the opposite direction in Katie Chung’s Spring collection. Based in Seoul, the epicenter of a generation of clued-up, hyper stylish boys, she brought the energy of City Pop, a cult style and music revival, to her show in Paris. “City Pop took off in Japan in the ’70s and ’80s, when the economy was booming. Kids looked to American lifestyles in Miami, L.A., and Hawaii and wanted some of it. They invented this whole jazz-electronic New Wave fusion of their own, with a beach-in-the-city look and Hockney-like posters,” she explained. “For a long time, people thought it was uncool. Now kids have started listening to it again there’s a whole underground City Pop thing going on. But,” she added, “of course, every revival looks different boys are wearing it in their own modern way.”Chung turned it out as a merge of Hawaiian palm-tree shirts, tie-dye, and ’40s-’70s Deco prints, layered into the kind of tailoring you see lanky groups of Korean boys wearing around Seoul Fashion Week. K-pop standards of male fashion-consciousness have upped the ante on dressing well throughout Asia. Wooyoungmi’s long track record in tailoring fits right in with that specific thirst for innovation—Chung’s oversize brown-and-white-checked shorts suit with a matching coat; her elongated jackets with wide fluid pants. The latter silhouette is the trend of the season in Paris menswear, of course. Hawaiian shirts too. That eye for what’s right is applicable internationally. although Woolrich has yet to secure the necessary city permits, the plan is that its soon-to-open New York store will feature a “weather room” in which shoppers will be able to test-drive garments in temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Celsius. Florence right now and New York in August (when that store opens its doors) seem like ideal locations for a walk-in refrigerator such as that planned by creative director Andrea Cane. As Stefano Saccone, the company’s newly installed CEO observed over a slice of pizza post-presentation, Woolrich is “a big Q4 business”  which is executive for “It sells like crazy when the weather turns nasty.” Buy this shirt:  Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Photos of a Yohji Yamamoto lineup never capture the Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt in contrast I will get this degree of details printed words, an artistic embellishment that you will discover on the clothes up close. Only when poking around backstage after today’s show did the text “I hold you, you hold me” reveal itself on a loose-fitting shirt. The designer, too, usually doles out his thoughts judiciously, as though being forced to explain himself not only demystifies the process but goes against the interpretative aspect of what he creates. Today, he reiterated his fear of an impending climate crisis, as well as his view that gender distinctions in menswear and womenswear have all but evaporated. These talking points manifested as ultra-relaxed ensembles, some bearing near-nonexistent landscapes. Masculine workwear jackets superimposed on suiting were interspersed with more ambiguous silhouettes, namely a dashing duo of full-length windbreakers in deep blue and yellow, worn like dresses. One of the two shirts styled overtop was marked up with the words mother f well, you get the idea. Compared with the humble raw cotton and signature black gabardine, a black velvet grouping introduced a certain grandeur especially those pieces covered in pseudo-historical heraldic emblems. Yamamoto said he experimented with these purely because he wanted to an aesthetic indulgence, essentially. In that vein, some pieces could have been spared the myriad zippered vents and excess bands. If nothing more, they were a reminder that he is not a minimalist. Yamamoto’s approach seemed less conceptual this season, and his commentary was correspondingly direct. “The earth is going to be crazy, really crazy,” he said. “I’m afraid the earth is going to die.” Did he think he would see this in his lifetime? “No, maybe our children and grandchildren.” And yet this wasn’t necessarily an exercise in fatalism. The pair of hands on the side of a garment were they signaling some sort of diplomatic handshake or a more affectionate clasp? “Both,” he replied. So we have a quandary: How can we have an economic theory that does not describe changes in the level of wealth? The fact is, that in typical explanations of the Savings equals Investment identity, one might come across in economics courses, it is implied that somehow this Savings that equals investment DOES include changes in the level of wealth. And that, I believe, is not only not true, it has led to all sorts of confusion. After thinking about this, I realized, that the expression for savings needed an additional element if it was going to include any changes in the level of wealth, I had to do just that. I had to add changes in level of wealth to the expression for savings. Buy this shirt:  Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Couples that fart together stay together shirt “My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage this collection was the Couples that fart together stay together shirt besides I will buy this first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-the-border roots. As he said at the top, however, Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract and that abstraction was reflected in the collection. One prosaic reason for this is he only revisited his mother’s homeland this year, for the first time in 30. Another is that just as in the last-season cycle of awesome Larry LeGaspi shows his themes are, ultimately, just one of the raw materials in a creative clay that is every season shaped by his design and in his own image. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in clothing created by Owens. Purple Label is Ralph Lauren’s jewel in the crown, a cultivated exercise in fine tailoring, where a quintessential sense of ease is infused with sophisticated polish. A palette of soft tonal colors, a slightly vintage insouciance, a fluidity of fit and balance of proportions come to mind when thinking of Purple Label’s signature aesthetic. Yet at today’s presentation at the label’s sumptuous Milanese headquarters, what stood out was a gorgeous, visually compelling lineup of brightly colored evening suits in shades of saturated yellow, fuchsia, and orange. Slim fitting and sharply cut in silk shantung, they looked exceptional, pointing towards an updated approach, with a zest of chic playfulness: “They’re tailored with a lighter construction, but still maintaining sartorial proportions,” said John Wrazej, executive vice president and creative director of men’s design. “They’re all handmade; it’s our uncompromising way of tailoring. They’re probably among the best suits you can find.” However, speculation is its own creature that continues far longer than is logical or rational. Speculation can drive prices to the stratosphere and often does. Energy stocks during the last Recession were highly speculated. Anything connected with shale or sand oil was way above the fundamentals at times that. Buy this shirt:  Couples that fart together stay together shirt Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Silhouettes were full, and the Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black in other words I will buy this assembly of pieces used to achieve them—what the designer called a “potpourri”—was eclectically and raffishly combined. “What I really wanted to express was the free soul of the artist, and how he creates his own elegance,” said Curradi backstage. “There were elements mixed from the ’90s, the ’80s, and the ’40s.” The result was a collection that did all the hard work in conjuring an aura of insouciant panache so its wearers won’t have to. Salut! Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change. The experimentation doesn’t stop there. For the first time in Geller’s career, he is using sequins on tanks, trousers, and shorts. “I wanted to get myself out of my comfort zone,” he explains. It’s a funny way of putting it; the backs of the sequin garments are actually made of nylon ripstop, so they are comfortable to sit in. Even with a fantastical mood haunting this season, amplified by wigs by Chrystoph Marten, Geller can’t help but be pragmatic. Yes it is a bubble, although most people want to believe it is not. If you study the fundamentals like the Income Statements quarterly for the past 12 quarters you will find that fundamentals are lagging for many of this high-flying companies. If a company has negative earnings, as some tech companies that are being speculated do have negative or declining earnings or revenues or both, then this is considered a bubble. Buy this shirt:  Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt Raincoats were mixed with hunting jackets; bombers were blended with truck tops; sweatshirts joined with leather jackets in new imaginative shapes. Even the Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt but in fact I love this shoes were given a hybridized treatment, with a new sneaker fusing skateboard and basketball styles and mismatched colors. The show finale embraced the uplifting mood, with a futuristic ghetto blaster incorporated into a sleek black backpack. “You can carry it around and have a full, major party anytime, anywhere,” enthused Barrett. Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor named her second menswear collection and first Paris presentation Come As You Are, but lest this instantly leads you to the Nirvana classic, she was tapping into a state of mind. “When your intention is not so much to impress with your dressing, but much more about daring to express your style,” she explained. Sandor elaborated that vacations are most conducive to this, as you’re usually less preoccupied with how others perceive you. And so, from a school courtyard that evoked a private oasis in Rome, male models (and a few girls, too) looked to be on a holiday that might have taken place in the 1950s, only on closer inspection, their outfits were all updated and very much urban in attitude. The main giveaway: her recalibrated volumes—jackets were slouchier and sportier, shorts signaled city rather than the beach, and the styling felt pleasingly off-the-cuff. Beyond this, batik and woodblock digital prints had a convincing handmade touch and brought liveliness to certain looks that otherwise leaned too beige. “Bohemian minimalist,” was how the Budapest-based designer put it. Sandor has been sustainability-minded since the beginning, and her application of vegan leather to tailoring was a justified point of pride. Given the finesse of the pants, shirt, and windbreaker-style jacket in feel and in fit she could push even further into the category and make it a real signature. The jacket in crocheted leather, for now just a prototype, would suggest she’ll have more to show off next season, whether or not she returns to Paris. The outfits she wore for her wedding were gorgeous and are probably amongst everyone’s favorites. However, I think that 90% of her outfits are elegant so it’s really difficult to choose. Narrowed it down to these three. Every color really suits her but my favourite is the light blue outfit, I think she looks stunning. would rely on my radiant beauty to make them swoon at my feet. I haven’t tried a ball gown before. A wedding dress, once, when I did a Madonna impersonation for a spoof of “Like a Virgin.” Nobody who watched that was capable of combat for several minutes thereafter. I bet I’d be even more devastating in a gown. You are in a ball gown at an event when it is attacked by enemy soldiers. What will you do since you are in the ball gown with no time to change, fight in it or rip some parts Buy this shirt:  Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Fashion and music have always gone together. For Nicholas Daley, though, the AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Furthermore, I will do this relationship between the two is especially symbiotic. His parents one Scottish, the other Jamaican ran a reggae club in the late 1970s and ’80s, so the designer was raised on a diet of dub, roots, and culture, and all the swaggering style that came with that. Since he launched his namesake label in 2015, Daley has incorporated a musical component into his presentations, usually intimate affairs. Staged in the lofty St. Mary-at-Hill Church in the financial district of London, his show this evening was his most ambitious and impressive to date. To set the tone, Daley invited the British jazz band Sons of Kemet for a jam session. Performances at fashion shows are nothing new, but it is rare to see musicians walk the runway while playing their instruments. Bandleader Shabaka Hutchings opened the show saxophone in hand, dressed in orange-and-brown cargo pants and a matching utility vest layered over a mesh tank. His bandmates followed shortly behind him, including the tuba player Theon Cross, who swept in wearing a poncho and Irish linen shorts. Daley is a stickler for details, down to the incense that’s custom-formulated in Japan to fit the vibe of each show. The clothes were just as considered, with cowrie shells hand-threaded through the eyelets of sneakers and charming knitted satchels. Speaking after the show, Daley took pride in underscoring the fact that he produces in the United Kingdom. As far as bigger-picture inspiration goes, all roads led back to the Sun Ra Arkestra. The hugely influential American jazz group has always had a dedicated following, but lately, its Afrofuturism vision has been resonating in mainstream culture with movies such as Black Panther and artists like Janelle Monae. The New Model Army, raised by parliament was the first professional army in England (professional units had existed prior to this) so much of their equipment, including uniform, was standardized. This is not exactly the redcoat of the British Empire but it’s where it started. Also, as the musket became the main battlefield weapon, identification of troops, at a distance, became critical. As I mentioned, from the mid 17th century onwards identification on the battlefield became increasingly important and each nation started to pick a color for its infantry. Often cavalry units would have a much wider variety of colors which probably reflected their generally higher level of wealth, as units, and perceived higher social standing. (Wellington said something along the lines that cavalry were merely there to make a battle look presentable). Buy this shirt:  AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt 2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt We’re desperately in need of a scale against which to measure brands’ sustainability; in the 2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt moreover I love this meantime, there’s always the test of time. “I think the comment I hear most,” said Norma Kamali, “is, ‘Oh, I still have your…[whatever].’ It really does make me feel great to think [that something I designed a long time ago] is still in their wardrobe.” Kamali’s catalog is so large and so adaptable, if she didn’t get bored easily, she could just rest on her laurels. Timing is an art, and of late, many of the designer’s rereleases are dictated by which of her vintage pieces are trending on Instagram; hence the reappearance of the Puli jumpsuit (Look 59) for Spring. Last Fall, Kamali revisited her “Modern Sculpture” dress—a tube separated from its connected sleeves by giant round cutouts sort of like a Henry Moore sculpture. Beyoncé and her team saw it and ordered customized versions for the “Spirit” video shot for The Lion King. It’s back for Spring as a dress, top, and jumpsuit, and in new fabrications. Speaking of art, Kamali has updated her parachute coat with metallic silver nylon that is almost as shiny as one of Jeff Koons’s reflective pieces. We talk a lot in the office about adapting swimwear for city life. Kamali, who is noted for her skills in this area, makes it easy with bra tops and other convertible pieces (another signature). For the daring, there are nude-illusion options; more covered but also chic are her “diaper” bottoms, first popularized by Claire McCardell in the 1940s. Kamali is still going strong with gender-fluid design “I think it’s becoming more and more real every season,” she noted and she photographed her Spring 2020 collection in two sessions, one on women, the other on men, some of whom are employees. The latter were invited to bring their own accessories and to choose and style any pieces they like. They selected their own poses as well. “They all chose this [wrap] dress,” Kamali noted, “and it’s very funny because it’s a dress I did in the ’70s, and it was the first dress that guys ever bought from me.” Good design, apparently, has no expiration date. “Clothes,” states Kamali, “have to function, but they also have to make you happy.” The empire didn’t exist when the English army started to wear red. The British army could be called the British army, and not the English army by the end of the 17th century. However red comes about due to the English civil war and the parliament’s “New Model Army” which was formed in 1645. Buy this shirt:  2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Sander Lak made his official menswear debut from an upper hall of the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt and I love this Opéra Bastille, where the stunning view out to Paris was nearly panoramic. It was a not-so-subtle reminder that today’s show also marked his first outside of New York, where he is now among the brightest stars of the city’s Fashion Week. Scheduled after Loewe and before Thom Browne, Lak presented both the men’s Fall capsule, now available to buy; the new Spring collection; plus some womenswear and if you didn’t know any better, you’d assume Sies Marjan has been on the Paris calendar all along. “There are an elevation and tougher competitive spirit in Paris; but in the end, I was just thinking about what is the best work I can make the most beautiful version of whatever it is I’m trying to translate,” he said, with impressive composure. That “whatever” was expressed by Erykah Badu’s “I Want You,” an extra-long track from 2003 that oozes anxious longing and intensifying soul. It could also be felt in rounded expanses of male décolleté, outerwear spanning skin tones, knitwear underpinnings, and tied waists that could be undone with a single pull. That “whatever” was Lak addressing male sexuality in a highly nuanced way. “What can you show off the male body that isn’t necessarily porn or sex or gay or straight?” he said. “It’s this idea of nudity while fully dressed.” In parallel, though, he also seemed determined to give the pieces a more elevated positioning. Chromatic leather jackets some embossed with a croc-effect unstructured trench coat in deep hues and sensuous constructions of silk not unlike his women’s designs got this point across. Lak, in any case, wasn’t making a radical statement for this coming out so much as a deeply personal one. “I put everything into my work, and it’s about having to expose yourself.” It’s rare to hear a designer discuss his or her own emotional vulnerability in the moments before or after a show; and yet this is what gives Sies Marjan a resonance beyond his sumptuous explorations of texture or color. Now if we have ascertained that 110 million dollars of spending have occurred in the current year, that doesn’t mean we have determined that we have a 110 million dollars in currency, because a given amount of money can be used for spending over and over. In fact the proper way to calculate the amount of spending is the take the average number of times each unit of the money supply is used for spending in that year (the velocity of money V) times the face value of the total amount of money in the money supply Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt The Australian pearls strung around the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt also I will do this necks of Justin O’Shea’s models were absolute whoppers but nothing compared to the size of the balls required to wear this collection. With SSS World Corp, O’Shea is presenting a wardrobe for a specific slice of masculinity of which he is 100 percent a member. Totally (apparently) self-confident, highly body-conscious, and at least in gesture hedonistically inclined, it’s probably a great place to be. It also helps if you have a beard. Some of O’Shea’s models were so O’Shea-like you momentarily suspected they were O’Shea. Any guests enjoying an afternoon moment in the suites above us would have been startled by the “Ace of Spades”–topped soundtrack that rattled around the courtyard garden of the Ritz as the guys rolled across the grass, all barrel-chested braggadocio, in the opening section of suiting. Cut in purposefully early ’80s tones of mink and brown and sometimes patterned by jacquard or enhanced by piping or sequin at the lapel, these were cut high-skirted to display the result of all those squat reps and protein shakes and featured a flared pant shape. Once our bad boys had finished their sartorial strut, they retired to the boudoir in a peignoir featuring Motörhead’s longhorn Satanic skull logo (a collab piece) before re-emerging in a tracksuit or series of short-short and cabana jacket ensembles teamed with the same pimpily color-clashed loafer and hosiery combos from the first time around. One of these featured a very cheeky license-plate print whose registrations listed some of the inspirations O’Shea had turned to when building this collection, including American Gigolo–era Giorgio Armani. Come the close and O’Sheathe real O’Shea at last emerged, on Harley-Davidson’s long-developed first ever all-electric motorcycle, the LiveWire, which looked pretty fantastic. Speaking pre-show about Motörhead’s inimitable lead singer Lemmy, O’Shea had said: “His ideology was very much in line with that of Triple S. It’s like ‘I’m just going to whatever I want and whatever happens is fine and just that’s the way it’s going to be.’ And that’s a great idea of life.” Not wrong. If one decided to measure all wealth on the wealth axis in “real” terms, then the “inflation adjusted value” or “buying power” or “real value” of the savings that is the preservation of investment would be different than when it was first spent. It would still be the same money, in the same amount. but that same money would be worth less in “real” terms at the end of the given time period, than at the beginning, if prices changed over that period, i.e., if there was inflation. This is because inflation is actually a measure of what really did happen, not what the system of two independent variables allows to be described. They take a known amount of spending and total wealth sold at one point in time, and compare it to a known amount of spending and known about of total wealth sold, at another point in time. Notice that is measuring only wealth sold, not all wealth. That is where inflation fits in. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt In keeping with the Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt Furthermore, I will do this festive, uplifting mood embedded in the house of McCartney, both collections were presented tonight during Milan Men’s opening day with a party in the enchanting garden of an old Milanese palazzo. But the event had a provocative edge: Models mingled with a collective of young activists performing a peaceful protest and chanting slogans on climate change awareness. Ribbons made of upcycled archival materials were flowing in the wind and could be personalized with messages for loved ones; they’ll be donated to a local design school to make sure that there’ll be zero waste. McCartney was radiant: “If you want to buy something these days, buy something that isn’t killing your planet!” she said. “If you have a fashion platform, if you have a voice, take responsibility and do something more than just a pretty color or a pretty hemline right now. It’s time to do something.” It’s simply not possible to disagree with her call to action. Together they came up with the round pattern of a sun, which became Resort’s distinctive print: “It’s the circular weather, it’s the clouds, it’s the rain; the sun is breathing, blowing wind,” said McCartney. “But it’s also a little bit trippy, a little bit ’90s, a sort of dance-trance vibe.” Stefan Cooke and his partner Jake Burt have been so applauded since they stepped onto the fashion stage that they’ve had a funny sensation that they’re still role-playing the part of what “designers” are meant to be. The spotlight trained on what Cooke and Burt do is well deserved: the believable young masculinity their collections portray, its basis in inventing techniques that recast the structure of familiar garments like the wonder they bring to the humble argyle sweater and their playful knack for trompe l’oeil prints. All this, and a precocious talent for creating stuff that is so clearly wearable. So, anyway: The wunderkind double act thought about backstage theater and costume as a theme for the first stand-alone Stefan Cooke show. “Really, it goes back to costume, to acting to us learning how to be someone over the last 15 months,” said Burt. “It’s like us, really, people think you’re a certain way,” Cooke added. “And the reality is, we’re still living in a flat with two other graduates.” Total wealth, a measure of wealth, and net production could be measured any way you want, in “nominal” or “real” terms. Since wealth is measured on a different axis, even though savings that is the preservation of investment is a nominal measure, the measure of wealth doesn’t have to be. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt It goes without saying that Stella McCartney is a passionate nature lover, so what better way to have a conversation with her than in a lush, quiet garden in Milan’s city center, surrounded by magnolias, wisterias climbing around trees, and chirping birds? “Let’s just forget fashion for a moment and savor all the Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt and I love this natural beauty around us and talk about flowers!” she said. Flowers were actually very much part of her Resort collection, which she named Forces For Nature. Hand-drawn bouquets were printed on light cloqué summer dresses in delicate tones of peony, wisteria, and primrose, as if they had just been picked up in a field or in a bluebell wood in spring, during one of the weekends she loves to spend in the countryside with her family. “It’s always the best time,” she said. It also goes without saying that McCartney isn’t afraid of challenges: “I’m a big believer in change,” she said. “When something is getting too comfortable, I tend to feel uncomfortable.” Her company is undergoing a sort of mutation, becoming independent after having to be part of the Kering Group for so many years. It’s an energizing time for the designer her pioneering work on sustainable fashion has set the bar high for the industry, not only helping to raise awareness but also showing that sustainability and a healthy business can go together. For Resort, her approach has become more overt: “Normally you don’t see what we do in terms of manufacturing conscientiousness,” she explained. “All the efforts we make in doing what we do are in the product, not on the product. This season I wanted to make it more visible.” Enter Everything Is Illuminated’s best-selling author Jonathan Safran Foer, who, feeling a kindred spirit in McCartney, sent her his book Eating Animals a few years ago. “I was blown away,” she said. A friendship ensued and now a collaboration, which has been years in the making. Safran Foer has a new book called We Are The Weather which will be out in September: “So I said to Jonathan, ‘Why don’t I put into fashion what it is you’re putting into words?” Just a comment that for total wealth on the wealth axis, one can try to value it by estimating the value of each part of the wealth to get one number, or one can divide it up like an inventory and try to value each category. Net production then might be an accounting of what the current period of economic activity would do to each category, instead of having net production just being a positive or negative number added to or subtracted from total wealth. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt I’m Nacho Valentine shirt So what was going on with the I’m nacho Valentine shirt What’s more,I will buy this black felt fireman hats, old-school police hats, and jockey caps? Why did so many models wear waistcoats that looked like they’d been forcibly wrenched to the left of the body in a bar fight? And the kangaroo pocket pleat-bib shirt smocks? What was with Mickey Mouse? Does Tom Ford say long johns are an outerwear option now when did you get that memo? “This is all just my style,” said Takahiro Miyashita, his expression obliquely refracted through his John Lennon glasses after this interesting show. The collection seemed to be a kind of imaginative boyhood view of tropes of uniform the clothes that authority figures wear all messed up by a purposely blurred focus. There was a heavy gestalt feeling at play, yet the parts that made up the sum were in fact the meat and potatoes of this richly blended stew of auto-referential menswear. This was a collection based upon the aspirations of manhood we aspire to when immature, eroded by the knowledge gained through maturity. It was about lost love squandered and idiocy. Yes, it was also about a collaboration with Converse that introduced a new pimp-soled postmodern expression of Chuck. The collection was called Duet, but it was really a series of duets between Miyashita and his references. Between them, they created a handsome, soaring chorus in which the disappointment inherent in aspiring to fit into the uniform of masculine codes and then falling short of their impossible standards, hung long and slow in the air. Miyashita called this “a love song for fashion” and it was real love, true love, tough love. With externally worn underwear baring your soul, Soloist style. Textile company Albini collaborated with the designers to create a deckchair-striped cotton poplin which had a vaguely penitentiary feeling in all-over outfits for men. And then there was that catnip slogan tank-tee. It was taken directly from the shirt in a photo by Stanley Stellar of an attendee at 1995’s Wigstock Festival in New York, and those inverted-commas so hot right now made it especially funny. But if this show represented “fashion” or just fashion in Milan this afternoon, then it was pretty hard to hate. The first part, the savings that is the preservation of investment does not represent any change in the level of wealth. Reducing spending will not, in and of itself, cause any reduction in the level of wealth. This is because whether a given amount of money is used for spending or not, it still exists in the same amount at the end of the given time period. Buy this shirt:  I’m Nacho Valentine shirt I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt The canopy-free parasols were a meteorologically ironic insertion into this typically sumptuous Thom Browne show, given the I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt Also,I will get this punishing heat in the glass-roof École des Beaux-Arts this afternoon. They were just one small part of a theatrical runway fantasy, in which Browne—recast as Monsieur Brun in his show notes imagined himself as a host at what he called a Versailles country club. Playing Brun was no less than James Whiteside, one of American Ballet Theatre’s principal dancers, who emerged palely powdered with ceruse and tricolor blue bee-stung lips, wearing a high-cut seersucker tutu. He cut a marvelous swath as he prepared for his garden party. This involved overseeing the preparation of 10 “statues,” which were in fact 10 very game models clad in horizontally enormous 2-D trompe l’oeil renderings of the 3-D outfits worn beneath them, which were short suits in various shades of seersucker accessorized with seersucker footballs, basketballs, and baseballs. They were shod in black and white brogued basketballs topped by pulled-high mismatched sports socks. Their outfits were revealed by attendants in sport shorts, pointy-toe corespondent shoes, and Browne-skinny jackets whose skirts barely brushed the matching codpiece/jockstrap also worn below. All this, mind you, before the first look of the collection. Browne’s guests strode onto his metaphorical lawn with more correspondents, these with a curved 2 inches or so exposed inset heel that elevated the ball of the foot above the flat sole beneath it. The outfits, like the latticed football helmet worn by one of the attendants, made lavish use of the wide-to-each-side silhouette created by Marie Antoinette era pannier dresses. In the pieces adorned with prep-staple marine patching, there was another irony in the fashion interplay of whale and whalebone (happily, though, no whale tail). Against that broadening, Ying tugged the narrowing yang of corsetry, from which were suspended literally drop-waist skirts. Pretty much everything was seersucker, sometimes patched, sometimes fringed, sometimes embroidered but always seersucker. Buy this shirt:  I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt If the I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt and I will buy this term seersucker suit makes you cringe, Snyder’s solid mauve version will easily change your mind; in fact, you may not even recognize it as seersucker. Without the usual country club stripes, it has a great, crumbly texture, and is light and crisp enough to wear in August. Snyder even made a black seersucker tuxedo, with the lapels and waistband in lustrous satin. A particularly irreverent groom might wear it to his wedding as it was styled here: with Birkenstock sandals. Titled The Ride, Tod’s Spring collection revolved around the idea of dynamism, speed, and movement, taking elements from the world of travel streamlined to a minimalist approach, suggesting urban velocity without any literal references. A sense of lightness was underlined throughout, with featherweight leather taking center stage and technical sporty fabrics treated with agility and ease. A new version of the leather biker was the collection’s pièce de résistance, cut lean and sleek, with a double-striped motif in contrasting colors running on the sides in keeping with Tod’s recurring signature graphics. A utilitarian approach was there in a technical multi-pocketed vest and field jackets; a safari jacket and a soft suede car coat in earth tones introduced a feel of far-away, exotic landscapes. Playing on contrasts, a more tailored offering provided an alternative to the collection’s overall sporty vibe, introducing an elegant urban feel with a playful preppy touch. Checkered jacquard was used as an all-over motif for a three-piece city ensemble of matching blazer, pants, and duster. Suits were cut with a regular fit and classic proportions, the most covetable being an indigo mixed-wool double-breasted example mimicking a denim texture. A new sneaker capsule kept Tod’s shoe selection up-to-date, while the famous Gommino was given a new lease of life with a wrap-around rubber shell enveloping the super-soft loafer. In the macroeconomy, we have spent, of a certain amount, creating income for the recipients of that spending in the same amount. This is gross income, as we are including all transfers of ownership of money for a purpose. And the accounting of this spending does not describe in any way shape or form any change in the level of wealth since all it describes is wealth in the form of money having its ownership be transferred from one person or entity to another. And we have added another element to the definition of the savings I am calling “net production” that does describe changes in type and amounts of wealth. Buy this shirt:  I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt Todd Snyder was the I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt In addition,I will do this head of men’s design at J.Crew in 2008 when the brand opened its “Liquor Store” on a quiet corner in Tribeca. It was a bar turned men’s shop that quickly became a destination for the younger, cooler, more downtown kind of J.Crew guy. In retrospect, it was also an early indicator of experiential retail. With its velvet furniture, dark wood paneling, and vintage chandeliers, it was a place you could actually, you know, hang out—and maybe pick up a cashmere sweater or varsity jacket, too. When Snyder heard the store was closing earlier this year, he called the owner, presented his ideas for revamping the shop, and eventually signed a lease. Buy this shirt:  I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt The show ended with a series of Hilfiger Collection looks that included all the I am a grumpy old lady I am allergic to stupidity shirt But I will love this designer’s most beloved preppy motifs: Bermuda shorts, nautical prints, Oxford stripes, and of course the Star-Spangled Banner. Even still, the brand is charting new territory where it counts: 75% of the collection was made using more sustainable production methods, including organic cotton, recycled fabric, and low-impact denim washes. With his 35th anniversary on the horizon, Tommy Hilfiger is in a retrospective mood. For Spring 2020, the brand’s original crest was writ large on classic striped button-downs and archival pieces that have been updated in time for the celebrations, including cream and white varsity jacket. Peek inside one of the reissued men’s peacoats and you’ll find a refresher on the provenance of that distinctive 1985 motif, a combination of lion, laurel, and sword, printed on the lining. For millennial men and women drawn to the designer’s throwback styles, this will be a succinct lesson in fashion history. Preppy values remain at the heart of what Hilfiger does—the label’s logo is a riff on traditional sailing flags, after all. The most compelling reworkings of those codes came through in the collection’s nautical bent, in charming maritime scarf dresses tied with ribbon, flag-print pajama suits, and seafaring parkas. Red, white, and blue have always been the core colors in the designer’s vision of sportswear, and there were stars and stripes of every kind woven through his new offering, starting with a graphic star-spangled navy and white midi skirt and ending with a traditional American flag sweater. There on the rail, tucked alongside that fleshy pink zebra jacquard jacket, were the items IRL. A quick going over established that even though these looked like yoga pants, they were, more strictly, pieces of long-legged underwear—the button-free fly detail made this abundantly clear. Ford, sadly, was not present at this presentation, but he had provided the next best thing: a Ford-penned press release brimming with cogitations upon the season ahead. There, near the bottom, was the key decree: “Long underwear in abstract camouflage prints is worn as casualwear and replaces the training pant this season.” Boom. In one apparently nonchalant sentence, Tom Ford might just have empowered long johns as outerwear. Don’t believe it? Past form suggests that what Tom says, goes. Welcome to the 2020s. Keynes realized that the best type of spending is the type of spending that directly pays for activities that produce more wealth. But he also realized, that if such spending were not forthcoming, and we were at less than full employment, that any spending increase, via its multiplier effect will still lead to increased production. Buy this shirt:  I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt It feels really personal to me,” said Robert Cavalli of his Florentine dandy-meets–British punk Spring collection. Indeed. What’s more personal than staging a presentation at your mother’s home? If the Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this mother in question is Eva Cavalli, then expect the home to be lavish. Her Florentine apartment, ensconced in a noble palazzo in the heart of the old city, boasts a magnificent secret garden, lush with century-old trees overlooking an ancient monastery and a church. Models and guests were lounging on the lawns, seemingly without a care in the world. At his label Triple RRR, the young designer is honing a languid aesthetic infused with an underground vibe. He has a penchant for a decadent Renaissance mood and favors opulence of fabrications and flamboyant yet elegant silhouettes, which he undercuts with irreverence and a flair for subversion. His signature robes de chambre in silk satin were worn over denim and with combat boots, and strict British-inspired tailoring was smoothed with almost feminine accents, as in ribbon belts cinching the waists of elongated blazers. Slender suits were given a sensuous finish via sumptuous mauve silk moiré, while a Prince of Wales jacquard suit was printed with red tigers and esoteric symbols. A little homage to Vivienne Westwood never hurts. It’s well known that the Cavalli family is fond of keeping a menagerie of exotic animals as domestic pets (think snakes, monkeys, iguanas); the young Robert doesn’t stray from tradition. He drew inspiration from his 25-year-old parakeet, Tommaso, the presentation’s guest of honor, whose colorful plumage was reproduced as a painterly print on a denim jacket and matching pants, or on a liquid silk robe coat, worn with a pale blue metallic leather biker. But beyond his family legacy, Cavalli is carving a place for himself in the fashion arena. If he keeps true to his quite personal mix of romantic, sensual rebelliousness, it’ll be interesting to follow his label’s future steps. So this shows Keynes’ awareness that in reality spending does not represent the depletion of wealth. He realized that the solution for production shortages in a situation where we have un- or underutilized resources, (including un- or underemployed people), is to increase spending, not to decrease spending. He realized that the increased spending will, for the most, part lead to increased employment of resources and increased net production of wealth. He showed that in such a situation, due to the effect of producing new wealth and preserving current wealth, increased spending can cause increased total wealth, and a higher standard of living, and improved quality of life. Buy this shirt:  Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt The flow of fashion culture from the Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt also I will do this West to the male youth of Asia turned in the opposite direction in Katie Chung’s Spring collection. Based in Seoul, the epicenter of a generation of clued-up, hyper stylish boys, she brought the energy of City Pop, a cult style and music revival, to her show in Paris. “City Pop took off in Japan in the ’70s and ’80s, when the economy was booming. Kids looked to American lifestyles in Miami, L.A., and Hawaii and wanted some of it. They invented this whole jazz-electronic New Wave fusion of their own, with a beach-in-the-city look and Hockney-like posters,” she explained. “For a long time, people thought it was uncool. Now kids have started listening to it again there’s a whole underground City Pop thing going on. But,” she added, “of course, every revival looks different boys are wearing it in their own modern way.”Chung turned it out as a merge of Hawaiian palm-tree shirts, tie-dye, and ’40s-’70s Deco prints, layered into the kind of tailoring you see lanky groups of Korean boys wearing around Seoul Fashion Week. K-pop standards of male fashion-consciousness have upped the ante on dressing well throughout Asia. Wooyoungmi’s long track record in tailoring fits right in with that specific thirst for innovation—Chung’s oversize brown-and-white-checked shorts suit with a matching coat; her elongated jackets with wide fluid pants. The latter silhouette is the trend of the season in Paris menswear, of course. Hawaiian shirts too. That eye for what’s right is applicable internationally. although Woolrich has yet to secure the necessary city permits, the plan is that its soon-to-open New York store will feature a “weather room” in which shoppers will be able to test-drive garments in temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Celsius. Florence right now and New York in August (when that store opens its doors) seem like ideal locations for a walk-in refrigerator such as that planned by creative director Andrea Cane. As Stefano Saccone, the company’s newly installed CEO observed over a slice of pizza post-presentation, Woolrich is “a big Q4 business”  which is executive for “It sells like crazy when the weather turns nasty.” Buy this shirt:  Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Photos of a Yohji Yamamoto lineup never capture the Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt in contrast I will get this degree of details printed words, an artistic embellishment that you will discover on the clothes up close. Only when poking around backstage after today’s show did the text “I hold you, you hold me” reveal itself on a loose-fitting shirt. The designer, too, usually doles out his thoughts judiciously, as though being forced to explain himself not only demystifies the process but goes against the interpretative aspect of what he creates. Today, he reiterated his fear of an impending climate crisis, as well as his view that gender distinctions in menswear and womenswear have all but evaporated. These talking points manifested as ultra-relaxed ensembles, some bearing near-nonexistent landscapes. Masculine workwear jackets superimposed on suiting were interspersed with more ambiguous silhouettes, namely a dashing duo of full-length windbreakers in deep blue and yellow, worn like dresses. One of the two shirts styled overtop was marked up with the words mother f well, you get the idea. Compared with the humble raw cotton and signature black gabardine, a black velvet grouping introduced a certain grandeur especially those pieces covered in pseudo-historical heraldic emblems. Yamamoto said he experimented with these purely because he wanted to an aesthetic indulgence, essentially. In that vein, some pieces could have been spared the myriad zippered vents and excess bands. If nothing more, they were a reminder that he is not a minimalist. Yamamoto’s approach seemed less conceptual this season, and his commentary was correspondingly direct. “The earth is going to be crazy, really crazy,” he said. “I’m afraid the earth is going to die.” Did he think he would see this in his lifetime? “No, maybe our children and grandchildren.” And yet this wasn’t necessarily an exercise in fatalism. The pair of hands on the side of a garment were they signaling some sort of diplomatic handshake or a more affectionate clasp? “Both,” he replied. So we have a quandary: How can we have an economic theory that does not describe changes in the level of wealth? The fact is, that in typical explanations of the Savings equals Investment identity, one might come across in economics courses, it is implied that somehow this Savings that equals investment DOES include changes in the level of wealth. And that, I believe, is not only not true, it has led to all sorts of confusion. After thinking about this, I realized, that the expression for savings needed an additional element if it was going to include any changes in the level of wealth, I had to do just that. I had to add changes in level of wealth to the expression for savings. Buy this shirt:  Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Couples that fart together stay together shirt “My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage this collection was the Couples that fart together stay together shirt besides I will buy this first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-the-border roots. As he said at the top, however, Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract and that abstraction was reflected in the collection. One prosaic reason for this is he only revisited his mother’s homeland this year, for the first time in 30. Another is that just as in the last-season cycle of awesome Larry LeGaspi shows his themes are, ultimately, just one of the raw materials in a creative clay that is every season shaped by his design and in his own image. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in clothing created by Owens. Purple Label is Ralph Lauren’s jewel in the crown, a cultivated exercise in fine tailoring, where a quintessential sense of ease is infused with sophisticated polish. A palette of soft tonal colors, a slightly vintage insouciance, a fluidity of fit and balance of proportions come to mind when thinking of Purple Label’s signature aesthetic. Yet at today’s presentation at the label’s sumptuous Milanese headquarters, what stood out was a gorgeous, visually compelling lineup of brightly colored evening suits in shades of saturated yellow, fuchsia, and orange. Slim fitting and sharply cut in silk shantung, they looked exceptional, pointing towards an updated approach, with a zest of chic playfulness: “They’re tailored with a lighter construction, but still maintaining sartorial proportions,” said John Wrazej, executive vice president and creative director of men’s design. “They’re all handmade; it’s our uncompromising way of tailoring. They’re probably among the best suits you can find.” However, speculation is its own creature that continues far longer than is logical or rational. Speculation can drive prices to the stratosphere and often does. Energy stocks during the last Recession were highly speculated. Anything connected with shale or sand oil was way above the fundamentals at times that. Buy this shirt:  Couples that fart together stay together shirt Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Silhouettes were full, and the Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black in other words I will buy this assembly of pieces used to achieve them—what the designer called a “potpourri”—was eclectically and raffishly combined. “What I really wanted to express was the free soul of the artist, and how he creates his own elegance,” said Curradi backstage. “There were elements mixed from the ’90s, the ’80s, and the ’40s.” The result was a collection that did all the hard work in conjuring an aura of insouciant panache so its wearers won’t have to. Salut! Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change. The experimentation doesn’t stop there. For the first time in Geller’s career, he is using sequins on tanks, trousers, and shorts. “I wanted to get myself out of my comfort zone,” he explains. It’s a funny way of putting it; the backs of the sequin garments are actually made of nylon ripstop, so they are comfortable to sit in. Even with a fantastical mood haunting this season, amplified by wigs by Chrystoph Marten, Geller can’t help but be pragmatic. Yes it is a bubble, although most people want to believe it is not. If you study the fundamentals like the Income Statements quarterly for the past 12 quarters you will find that fundamentals are lagging for many of this high-flying companies. If a company has negative earnings, as some tech companies that are being speculated do have negative or declining earnings or revenues or both, then this is considered a bubble. Buy this shirt:  Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt Raincoats were mixed with hunting jackets; bombers were blended with truck tops; sweatshirts joined with leather jackets in new imaginative shapes. Even the Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt but in fact I love this shoes were given a hybridized treatment, with a new sneaker fusing skateboard and basketball styles and mismatched colors. The show finale embraced the uplifting mood, with a futuristic ghetto blaster incorporated into a sleek black backpack. “You can carry it around and have a full, major party anytime, anywhere,” enthused Barrett. Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor named her second menswear collection and first Paris presentation Come As You Are, but lest this instantly leads you to the Nirvana classic, she was tapping into a state of mind. “When your intention is not so much to impress with your dressing, but much more about daring to express your style,” she explained. Sandor elaborated that vacations are most conducive to this, as you’re usually less preoccupied with how others perceive you. And so, from a school courtyard that evoked a private oasis in Rome, male models (and a few girls, too) looked to be on a holiday that might have taken place in the 1950s, only on closer inspection, their outfits were all updated and very much urban in attitude. The main giveaway: her recalibrated volumes—jackets were slouchier and sportier, shorts signaled city rather than the beach, and the styling felt pleasingly off-the-cuff. Beyond this, batik and woodblock digital prints had a convincing handmade touch and brought liveliness to certain looks that otherwise leaned too beige. “Bohemian minimalist,” was how the Budapest-based designer put it. Sandor has been sustainability-minded since the beginning, and her application of vegan leather to tailoring was a justified point of pride. Given the finesse of the pants, shirt, and windbreaker-style jacket in feel and in fit she could push even further into the category and make it a real signature. The jacket in crocheted leather, for now just a prototype, would suggest she’ll have more to show off next season, whether or not she returns to Paris. The outfits she wore for her wedding were gorgeous and are probably amongst everyone’s favorites. However, I think that 90% of her outfits are elegant so it’s really difficult to choose. Narrowed it down to these three. Every color really suits her but my favourite is the light blue outfit, I think she looks stunning. would rely on my radiant beauty to make them swoon at my feet. I haven’t tried a ball gown before. A wedding dress, once, when I did a Madonna impersonation for a spoof of “Like a Virgin.” Nobody who watched that was capable of combat for several minutes thereafter. I bet I’d be even more devastating in a gown. You are in a ball gown at an event when it is attacked by enemy soldiers. What will you do since you are in the ball gown with no time to change, fight in it or rip some parts Buy this shirt:  Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Fashion and music have always gone together. For Nicholas Daley, though, the AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Furthermore, I will do this relationship between the two is especially symbiotic. His parents one Scottish, the other Jamaican ran a reggae club in the late 1970s and ’80s, so the designer was raised on a diet of dub, roots, and culture, and all the swaggering style that came with that. Since he launched his namesake label in 2015, Daley has incorporated a musical component into his presentations, usually intimate affairs. Staged in the lofty St. Mary-at-Hill Church in the financial district of London, his show this evening was his most ambitious and impressive to date. To set the tone, Daley invited the British jazz band Sons of Kemet for a jam session. Performances at fashion shows are nothing new, but it is rare to see musicians walk the runway while playing their instruments. Bandleader Shabaka Hutchings opened the show saxophone in hand, dressed in orange-and-brown cargo pants and a matching utility vest layered over a mesh tank. His bandmates followed shortly behind him, including the tuba player Theon Cross, who swept in wearing a poncho and Irish linen shorts. Daley is a stickler for details, down to the incense that’s custom-formulated in Japan to fit the vibe of each show. The clothes were just as considered, with cowrie shells hand-threaded through the eyelets of sneakers and charming knitted satchels. Speaking after the show, Daley took pride in underscoring the fact that he produces in the United Kingdom. As far as bigger-picture inspiration goes, all roads led back to the Sun Ra Arkestra. The hugely influential American jazz group has always had a dedicated following, but lately, its Afrofuturism vision has been resonating in mainstream culture with movies such as Black Panther and artists like Janelle Monae. The New Model Army, raised by parliament was the first professional army in England (professional units had existed prior to this) so much of their equipment, including uniform, was standardized. This is not exactly the redcoat of the British Empire but it’s where it started. Also, as the musket became the main battlefield weapon, identification of troops, at a distance, became critical. As I mentioned, from the mid 17th century onwards identification on the battlefield became increasingly important and each nation started to pick a color for its infantry. Often cavalry units would have a much wider variety of colors which probably reflected their generally higher level of wealth, as units, and perceived higher social standing. (Wellington said something along the lines that cavalry were merely there to make a battle look presentable). 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Last Fall, Kamali revisited her “Modern Sculpture” dress—a tube separated from its connected sleeves by giant round cutouts sort of like a Henry Moore sculpture. Beyoncé and her team saw it and ordered customized versions for the “Spirit” video shot for The Lion King. It’s back for Spring as a dress, top, and jumpsuit, and in new fabrications. Speaking of art, Kamali has updated her parachute coat with metallic silver nylon that is almost as shiny as one of Jeff Koons’s reflective pieces. We talk a lot in the office about adapting swimwear for city life. Kamali, who is noted for her skills in this area, makes it easy with bra tops and other convertible pieces (another signature). For the daring, there are nude-illusion options; more covered but also chic are her “diaper” bottoms, first popularized by Claire McCardell in the 1940s. Kamali is still going strong with gender-fluid design “I think it’s becoming more and more real every season,” she noted and she photographed her Spring 2020 collection in two sessions, one on women, the other on men, some of whom are employees. The latter were invited to bring their own accessories and to choose and style any pieces they like. They selected their own poses as well. “They all chose this [wrap] dress,” Kamali noted, “and it’s very funny because it’s a dress I did in the ’70s, and it was the first dress that guys ever bought from me.” Good design, apparently, has no expiration date. “Clothes,” states Kamali, “have to function, but they also have to make you happy.” The empire didn’t exist when the English army started to wear red. The British army could be called the British army, and not the English army by the end of the 17th century. However red comes about due to the English civil war and the parliament’s “New Model Army” which was formed in 1645. 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Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Sander Lak made his official menswear debut from an upper hall of the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt and I love this Opéra Bastille, where the stunning view out to Paris was nearly panoramic. It was a not-so-subtle reminder that today’s show also marked his first outside of New York, where he is now among the brightest stars of the city’s Fashion Week. Scheduled after Loewe and before Thom Browne, Lak presented both the men’s Fall capsule, now available to buy; the new Spring collection; plus some womenswear and if you didn’t know any better, you’d assume Sies Marjan has been on the Paris calendar all along. “There are an elevation and tougher competitive spirit in Paris; but in the end, I was just thinking about what is the best work I can make the most beautiful version of whatever it is I’m trying to translate,” he said, with impressive composure. That “whatever” was expressed by Erykah Badu’s “I Want You,” an extra-long track from 2003 that oozes anxious longing and intensifying soul. It could also be felt in rounded expanses of male décolleté, outerwear spanning skin tones, knitwear underpinnings, and tied waists that could be undone with a single pull. That “whatever” was Lak addressing male sexuality in a highly nuanced way. “What can you show off the male body that isn’t necessarily porn or sex or gay or straight?” he said. “It’s this idea of nudity while fully dressed.” In parallel, though, he also seemed determined to give the pieces a more elevated positioning. Chromatic leather jackets some embossed with a croc-effect unstructured trench coat in deep hues and sensuous constructions of silk not unlike his women’s designs got this point across. Lak, in any case, wasn’t making a radical statement for this coming out so much as a deeply personal one. “I put everything into my work, and it’s about having to expose yourself.” It’s rare to hear a designer discuss his or her own emotional vulnerability in the moments before or after a show; and yet this is what gives Sies Marjan a resonance beyond his sumptuous explorations of texture or color. Now if we have ascertained that 110 million dollars of spending have occurred in the current year, that doesn’t mean we have determined that we have a 110 million dollars in currency, because a given amount of money can be used for spending over and over. In fact the proper way to calculate the amount of spending is the take the average number of times each unit of the money supply is used for spending in that year (the velocity of money V) times the face value of the total amount of money in the money supply Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt The Australian pearls strung around the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt also I will do this necks of Justin O’Shea’s models were absolute whoppers but nothing compared to the size of the balls required to wear this collection. With SSS World Corp, O’Shea is presenting a wardrobe for a specific slice of masculinity of which he is 100 percent a member. Totally (apparently) self-confident, highly body-conscious, and at least in gesture hedonistically inclined, it’s probably a great place to be. It also helps if you have a beard. Some of O’Shea’s models were so O’Shea-like you momentarily suspected they were O’Shea. Any guests enjoying an afternoon moment in the suites above us would have been startled by the “Ace of Spades”–topped soundtrack that rattled around the courtyard garden of the Ritz as the guys rolled across the grass, all barrel-chested braggadocio, in the opening section of suiting. Cut in purposefully early ’80s tones of mink and brown and sometimes patterned by jacquard or enhanced by piping or sequin at the lapel, these were cut high-skirted to display the result of all those squat reps and protein shakes and featured a flared pant shape. Once our bad boys had finished their sartorial strut, they retired to the boudoir in a peignoir featuring Motörhead’s longhorn Satanic skull logo (a collab piece) before re-emerging in a tracksuit or series of short-short and cabana jacket ensembles teamed with the same pimpily color-clashed loafer and hosiery combos from the first time around. One of these featured a very cheeky license-plate print whose registrations listed some of the inspirations O’Shea had turned to when building this collection, including American Gigolo–era Giorgio Armani. Come the close and O’Sheathe real O’Shea at last emerged, on Harley-Davidson’s long-developed first ever all-electric motorcycle, the LiveWire, which looked pretty fantastic. Speaking pre-show about Motörhead’s inimitable lead singer Lemmy, O’Shea had said: “His ideology was very much in line with that of Triple S. It’s like ‘I’m just going to whatever I want and whatever happens is fine and just that’s the way it’s going to be.’ And that’s a great idea of life.” Not wrong. If one decided to measure all wealth on the wealth axis in “real” terms, then the “inflation adjusted value” or “buying power” or “real value” of the savings that is the preservation of investment would be different than when it was first spent. It would still be the same money, in the same amount. but that same money would be worth less in “real” terms at the end of the given time period, than at the beginning, if prices changed over that period, i.e., if there was inflation. This is because inflation is actually a measure of what really did happen, not what the system of two independent variables allows to be described. They take a known amount of spending and total wealth sold at one point in time, and compare it to a known amount of spending and known about of total wealth sold, at another point in time. Notice that is measuring only wealth sold, not all wealth. That is where inflation fits in. 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McCartney was radiant: “If you want to buy something these days, buy something that isn’t killing your planet!” she said. “If you have a fashion platform, if you have a voice, take responsibility and do something more than just a pretty color or a pretty hemline right now. It’s time to do something.” It’s simply not possible to disagree with her call to action. Together they came up with the round pattern of a sun, which became Resort’s distinctive print: “It’s the circular weather, it’s the clouds, it’s the rain; the sun is breathing, blowing wind,” said McCartney. “But it’s also a little bit trippy, a little bit ’90s, a sort of dance-trance vibe.” Stefan Cooke and his partner Jake Burt have been so applauded since they stepped onto the fashion stage that they’ve had a funny sensation that they’re still role-playing the part of what “designers” are meant to be. The spotlight trained on what Cooke and Burt do is well deserved: the believable young masculinity their collections portray, its basis in inventing techniques that recast the structure of familiar garments like the wonder they bring to the humble argyle sweater and their playful knack for trompe l’oeil prints. All this, and a precocious talent for creating stuff that is so clearly wearable. So, anyway: The wunderkind double act thought about backstage theater and costume as a theme for the first stand-alone Stefan Cooke show. “Really, it goes back to costume, to acting to us learning how to be someone over the last 15 months,” said Burt. “It’s like us, really, people think you’re a certain way,” Cooke added. “And the reality is, we’re still living in a flat with two other graduates.” Total wealth, a measure of wealth, and net production could be measured any way you want, in “nominal” or “real” terms. Since wealth is measured on a different axis, even though savings that is the preservation of investment is a nominal measure, the measure of wealth doesn’t have to be. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt It goes without saying that Stella McCartney is a passionate nature lover, so what better way to have a conversation with her than in a lush, quiet garden in Milan’s city center, surrounded by magnolias, wisterias climbing around trees, and chirping birds? “Let’s just forget fashion for a moment and savor all the Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt and I love this natural beauty around us and talk about flowers!” she said. Flowers were actually very much part of her Resort collection, which she named Forces For Nature. Hand-drawn bouquets were printed on light cloqué summer dresses in delicate tones of peony, wisteria, and primrose, as if they had just been picked up in a field or in a bluebell wood in spring, during one of the weekends she loves to spend in the countryside with her family. “It’s always the best time,” she said. It also goes without saying that McCartney isn’t afraid of challenges: “I’m a big believer in change,” she said. “When something is getting too comfortable, I tend to feel uncomfortable.” Her company is undergoing a sort of mutation, becoming independent after having to be part of the Kering Group for so many years. It’s an energizing time for the designer her pioneering work on sustainable fashion has set the bar high for the industry, not only helping to raise awareness but also showing that sustainability and a healthy business can go together. For Resort, her approach has become more overt: “Normally you don’t see what we do in terms of manufacturing conscientiousness,” she explained. “All the efforts we make in doing what we do are in the product, not on the product. This season I wanted to make it more visible.” Enter Everything Is Illuminated’s best-selling author Jonathan Safran Foer, who, feeling a kindred spirit in McCartney, sent her his book Eating Animals a few years ago. “I was blown away,” she said. A friendship ensued and now a collaboration, which has been years in the making. Safran Foer has a new book called We Are The Weather which will be out in September: “So I said to Jonathan, ‘Why don’t I put into fashion what it is you’re putting into words?” Just a comment that for total wealth on the wealth axis, one can try to value it by estimating the value of each part of the wealth to get one number, or one can divide it up like an inventory and try to value each category. Net production then might be an accounting of what the current period of economic activity would do to each category, instead of having net production just being a positive or negative number added to or subtracted from total wealth. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt I’m Nacho Valentine shirt So what was going on with the I’m nacho Valentine shirt What’s more,I will buy this black felt fireman hats, old-school police hats, and jockey caps? Why did so many models wear waistcoats that looked like they’d been forcibly wrenched to the left of the body in a bar fight? And the kangaroo pocket pleat-bib shirt smocks? What was with Mickey Mouse? Does Tom Ford say long johns are an outerwear option now when did you get that memo? “This is all just my style,” said Takahiro Miyashita, his expression obliquely refracted through his John Lennon glasses after this interesting show. The collection seemed to be a kind of imaginative boyhood view of tropes of uniform the clothes that authority figures wear all messed up by a purposely blurred focus. There was a heavy gestalt feeling at play, yet the parts that made up the sum were in fact the meat and potatoes of this richly blended stew of auto-referential menswear. This was a collection based upon the aspirations of manhood we aspire to when immature, eroded by the knowledge gained through maturity. It was about lost love squandered and idiocy. Yes, it was also about a collaboration with Converse that introduced a new pimp-soled postmodern expression of Chuck. The collection was called Duet, but it was really a series of duets between Miyashita and his references. Between them, they created a handsome, soaring chorus in which the disappointment inherent in aspiring to fit into the uniform of masculine codes and then falling short of their impossible standards, hung long and slow in the air. Miyashita called this “a love song for fashion” and it was real love, true love, tough love. With externally worn underwear baring your soul, Soloist style. Textile company Albini collaborated with the designers to create a deckchair-striped cotton poplin which had a vaguely penitentiary feeling in all-over outfits for men. And then there was that catnip slogan tank-tee. It was taken directly from the shirt in a photo by Stanley Stellar of an attendee at 1995’s Wigstock Festival in New York, and those inverted-commas so hot right now made it especially funny. But if this show represented “fashion” or just fashion in Milan this afternoon, then it was pretty hard to hate. The first part, the savings that is the preservation of investment does not represent any change in the level of wealth. Reducing spending will not, in and of itself, cause any reduction in the level of wealth. This is because whether a given amount of money is used for spending or not, it still exists in the same amount at the end of the given time period. Buy this shirt:  I’m Nacho Valentine shirt I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt The canopy-free parasols were a meteorologically ironic insertion into this typically sumptuous Thom Browne show, given the I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt Also,I will get this punishing heat in the glass-roof École des Beaux-Arts this afternoon. They were just one small part of a theatrical runway fantasy, in which Browne—recast as Monsieur Brun in his show notes imagined himself as a host at what he called a Versailles country club. Playing Brun was no less than James Whiteside, one of American Ballet Theatre’s principal dancers, who emerged palely powdered with ceruse and tricolor blue bee-stung lips, wearing a high-cut seersucker tutu. He cut a marvelous swath as he prepared for his garden party. This involved overseeing the preparation of 10 “statues,” which were in fact 10 very game models clad in horizontally enormous 2-D trompe l’oeil renderings of the 3-D outfits worn beneath them, which were short suits in various shades of seersucker accessorized with seersucker footballs, basketballs, and baseballs. They were shod in black and white brogued basketballs topped by pulled-high mismatched sports socks. Their outfits were revealed by attendants in sport shorts, pointy-toe corespondent shoes, and Browne-skinny jackets whose skirts barely brushed the matching codpiece/jockstrap also worn below. All this, mind you, before the first look of the collection. Browne’s guests strode onto his metaphorical lawn with more correspondents, these with a curved 2 inches or so exposed inset heel that elevated the ball of the foot above the flat sole beneath it. The outfits, like the latticed football helmet worn by one of the attendants, made lavish use of the wide-to-each-side silhouette created by Marie Antoinette era pannier dresses. In the pieces adorned with prep-staple marine patching, there was another irony in the fashion interplay of whale and whalebone (happily, though, no whale tail). Against that broadening, Ying tugged the narrowing yang of corsetry, from which were suspended literally drop-waist skirts. Pretty much everything was seersucker, sometimes patched, sometimes fringed, sometimes embroidered but always seersucker. Buy this shirt:  I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt If the I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt and I will buy this term seersucker suit makes you cringe, Snyder’s solid mauve version will easily change your mind; in fact, you may not even recognize it as seersucker. Without the usual country club stripes, it has a great, crumbly texture, and is light and crisp enough to wear in August. Snyder even made a black seersucker tuxedo, with the lapels and waistband in lustrous satin. A particularly irreverent groom might wear it to his wedding as it was styled here: with Birkenstock sandals. Titled The Ride, Tod’s Spring collection revolved around the idea of dynamism, speed, and movement, taking elements from the world of travel streamlined to a minimalist approach, suggesting urban velocity without any literal references. A sense of lightness was underlined throughout, with featherweight leather taking center stage and technical sporty fabrics treated with agility and ease. A new version of the leather biker was the collection’s pièce de résistance, cut lean and sleek, with a double-striped motif in contrasting colors running on the sides in keeping with Tod’s recurring signature graphics. A utilitarian approach was there in a technical multi-pocketed vest and field jackets; a safari jacket and a soft suede car coat in earth tones introduced a feel of far-away, exotic landscapes. Playing on contrasts, a more tailored offering provided an alternative to the collection’s overall sporty vibe, introducing an elegant urban feel with a playful preppy touch. Checkered jacquard was used as an all-over motif for a three-piece city ensemble of matching blazer, pants, and duster. Suits were cut with a regular fit and classic proportions, the most covetable being an indigo mixed-wool double-breasted example mimicking a denim texture. A new sneaker capsule kept Tod’s shoe selection up-to-date, while the famous Gommino was given a new lease of life with a wrap-around rubber shell enveloping the super-soft loafer. In the macroeconomy, we have spent, of a certain amount, creating income for the recipients of that spending in the same amount. This is gross income, as we are including all transfers of ownership of money for a purpose. And the accounting of this spending does not describe in any way shape or form any change in the level of wealth since all it describes is wealth in the form of money having its ownership be transferred from one person or entity to another. And we have added another element to the definition of the savings I am calling “net production” that does describe changes in type and amounts of wealth. Buy this shirt:  I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt Todd Snyder was the I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt In addition,I will do this head of men’s design at J.Crew in 2008 when the brand opened its “Liquor Store” on a quiet corner in Tribeca. It was a bar turned men’s shop that quickly became a destination for the younger, cooler, more downtown kind of J.Crew guy. In retrospect, it was also an early indicator of experiential retail. With its velvet furniture, dark wood paneling, and vintage chandeliers, it was a place you could actually, you know, hang out—and maybe pick up a cashmere sweater or varsity jacket, too. When Snyder heard the store was closing earlier this year, he called the owner, presented his ideas for revamping the shop, and eventually signed a lease. Buy this shirt:  I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt The show ended with a series of Hilfiger Collection looks that included all the I am a grumpy old lady I am allergic to stupidity shirt But I will love this designer’s most beloved preppy motifs: Bermuda shorts, nautical prints, Oxford stripes, and of course the Star-Spangled Banner. Even still, the brand is charting new territory where it counts: 75% of the collection was made using more sustainable production methods, including organic cotton, recycled fabric, and low-impact denim washes. With his 35th anniversary on the horizon, Tommy Hilfiger is in a retrospective mood. For Spring 2020, the brand’s original crest was writ large on classic striped button-downs and archival pieces that have been updated in time for the celebrations, including cream and white varsity jacket. Peek inside one of the reissued men’s peacoats and you’ll find a refresher on the provenance of that distinctive 1985 motif, a combination of lion, laurel, and sword, printed on the lining. For millennial men and women drawn to the designer’s throwback styles, this will be a succinct lesson in fashion history. Preppy values remain at the heart of what Hilfiger does—the label’s logo is a riff on traditional sailing flags, after all. The most compelling reworkings of those codes came through in the collection’s nautical bent, in charming maritime scarf dresses tied with ribbon, flag-print pajama suits, and seafaring parkas. Red, white, and blue have always been the core colors in the designer’s vision of sportswear, and there were stars and stripes of every kind woven through his new offering, starting with a graphic star-spangled navy and white midi skirt and ending with a traditional American flag sweater. There on the rail, tucked alongside that fleshy pink zebra jacquard jacket, were the items IRL. A quick going over established that even though these looked like yoga pants, they were, more strictly, pieces of long-legged underwear—the button-free fly detail made this abundantly clear. Ford, sadly, was not present at this presentation, but he had provided the next best thing: a Ford-penned press release brimming with cogitations upon the season ahead. There, near the bottom, was the key decree: “Long underwear in abstract camouflage prints is worn as casualwear and replaces the training pant this season.” Boom. In one apparently nonchalant sentence, Tom Ford might just have empowered long johns as outerwear. Don’t believe it? Past form suggests that what Tom says, goes. Welcome to the 2020s. Keynes realized that the best type of spending is the type of spending that directly pays for activities that produce more wealth. But he also realized, that if such spending were not forthcoming, and we were at less than full employment, that any spending increase, via its multiplier effect will still lead to increased production. Buy this shirt:  I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt It feels really personal to me,” said Robert Cavalli of his Florentine dandy-meets–British punk Spring collection. Indeed. What’s more personal than staging a presentation at your mother’s home? If the Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this mother in question is Eva Cavalli, then expect the home to be lavish. Her Florentine apartment, ensconced in a noble palazzo in the heart of the old city, boasts a magnificent secret garden, lush with century-old trees overlooking an ancient monastery and a church. Models and guests were lounging on the lawns, seemingly without a care in the world. At his label Triple RRR, the young designer is honing a languid aesthetic infused with an underground vibe. He has a penchant for a decadent Renaissance mood and favors opulence of fabrications and flamboyant yet elegant silhouettes, which he undercuts with irreverence and a flair for subversion. His signature robes de chambre in silk satin were worn over denim and with combat boots, and strict British-inspired tailoring was smoothed with almost feminine accents, as in ribbon belts cinching the waists of elongated blazers. Slender suits were given a sensuous finish via sumptuous mauve silk moiré, while a Prince of Wales jacquard suit was printed with red tigers and esoteric symbols. A little homage to Vivienne Westwood never hurts. It’s well known that the Cavalli family is fond of keeping a menagerie of exotic animals as domestic pets (think snakes, monkeys, iguanas); the young Robert doesn’t stray from tradition. He drew inspiration from his 25-year-old parakeet, Tommaso, the presentation’s guest of honor, whose colorful plumage was reproduced as a painterly print on a denim jacket and matching pants, or on a liquid silk robe coat, worn with a pale blue metallic leather biker. But beyond his family legacy, Cavalli is carving a place for himself in the fashion arena. If he keeps true to his quite personal mix of romantic, sensual rebelliousness, it’ll be interesting to follow his label’s future steps. So this shows Keynes’ awareness that in reality spending does not represent the depletion of wealth. He realized that the solution for production shortages in a situation where we have un- or underutilized resources, (including un- or underemployed people), is to increase spending, not to decrease spending. He realized that the increased spending will, for the most, part lead to increased employment of resources and increased net production of wealth. He showed that in such a situation, due to the effect of producing new wealth and preserving current wealth, increased spending can cause increased total wealth, and a higher standard of living, and improved quality of life. Buy this shirt:  Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt The flow of fashion culture from the Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt also I will do this West to the male youth of Asia turned in the opposite direction in Katie Chung’s Spring collection. Based in Seoul, the epicenter of a generation of clued-up, hyper stylish boys, she brought the energy of City Pop, a cult style and music revival, to her show in Paris. “City Pop took off in Japan in the ’70s and ’80s, when the economy was booming. Kids looked to American lifestyles in Miami, L.A., and Hawaii and wanted some of it. They invented this whole jazz-electronic New Wave fusion of their own, with a beach-in-the-city look and Hockney-like posters,” she explained. “For a long time, people thought it was uncool. Now kids have started listening to it again there’s a whole underground City Pop thing going on. But,” she added, “of course, every revival looks different boys are wearing it in their own modern way.”Chung turned it out as a merge of Hawaiian palm-tree shirts, tie-dye, and ’40s-’70s Deco prints, layered into the kind of tailoring you see lanky groups of Korean boys wearing around Seoul Fashion Week. K-pop standards of male fashion-consciousness have upped the ante on dressing well throughout Asia. Wooyoungmi’s long track record in tailoring fits right in with that specific thirst for innovation—Chung’s oversize brown-and-white-checked shorts suit with a matching coat; her elongated jackets with wide fluid pants. The latter silhouette is the trend of the season in Paris menswear, of course. Hawaiian shirts too. That eye for what’s right is applicable internationally. although Woolrich has yet to secure the necessary city permits, the plan is that its soon-to-open New York store will feature a “weather room” in which shoppers will be able to test-drive garments in temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Celsius. Florence right now and New York in August (when that store opens its doors) seem like ideal locations for a walk-in refrigerator such as that planned by creative director Andrea Cane. As Stefano Saccone, the company’s newly installed CEO observed over a slice of pizza post-presentation, Woolrich is “a big Q4 business”  which is executive for “It sells like crazy when the weather turns nasty.” Buy this shirt:  Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Photos of a Yohji Yamamoto lineup never capture the Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt in contrast I will get this degree of details printed words, an artistic embellishment that you will discover on the clothes up close. Only when poking around backstage after today’s show did the text “I hold you, you hold me” reveal itself on a loose-fitting shirt. The designer, too, usually doles out his thoughts judiciously, as though being forced to explain himself not only demystifies the process but goes against the interpretative aspect of what he creates. Today, he reiterated his fear of an impending climate crisis, as well as his view that gender distinctions in menswear and womenswear have all but evaporated. These talking points manifested as ultra-relaxed ensembles, some bearing near-nonexistent landscapes. Masculine workwear jackets superimposed on suiting were interspersed with more ambiguous silhouettes, namely a dashing duo of full-length windbreakers in deep blue and yellow, worn like dresses. One of the two shirts styled overtop was marked up with the words mother f well, you get the idea. Compared with the humble raw cotton and signature black gabardine, a black velvet grouping introduced a certain grandeur especially those pieces covered in pseudo-historical heraldic emblems. Yamamoto said he experimented with these purely because he wanted to an aesthetic indulgence, essentially. In that vein, some pieces could have been spared the myriad zippered vents and excess bands. If nothing more, they were a reminder that he is not a minimalist. Yamamoto’s approach seemed less conceptual this season, and his commentary was correspondingly direct. “The earth is going to be crazy, really crazy,” he said. “I’m afraid the earth is going to die.” Did he think he would see this in his lifetime? “No, maybe our children and grandchildren.” And yet this wasn’t necessarily an exercise in fatalism. The pair of hands on the side of a garment were they signaling some sort of diplomatic handshake or a more affectionate clasp? “Both,” he replied. So we have a quandary: How can we have an economic theory that does not describe changes in the level of wealth? The fact is, that in typical explanations of the Savings equals Investment identity, one might come across in economics courses, it is implied that somehow this Savings that equals investment DOES include changes in the level of wealth. And that, I believe, is not only not true, it has led to all sorts of confusion. After thinking about this, I realized, that the expression for savings needed an additional element if it was going to include any changes in the level of wealth, I had to do just that. I had to add changes in level of wealth to the expression for savings. Buy this shirt:  Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Couples that fart together stay together shirt “My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage this collection was the Couples that fart together stay together shirt besides I will buy this first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-the-border roots. As he said at the top, however, Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract and that abstraction was reflected in the collection. One prosaic reason for this is he only revisited his mother’s homeland this year, for the first time in 30. Another is that just as in the last-season cycle of awesome Larry LeGaspi shows his themes are, ultimately, just one of the raw materials in a creative clay that is every season shaped by his design and in his own image. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in clothing created by Owens. Purple Label is Ralph Lauren’s jewel in the crown, a cultivated exercise in fine tailoring, where a quintessential sense of ease is infused with sophisticated polish. A palette of soft tonal colors, a slightly vintage insouciance, a fluidity of fit and balance of proportions come to mind when thinking of Purple Label’s signature aesthetic. Yet at today’s presentation at the label’s sumptuous Milanese headquarters, what stood out was a gorgeous, visually compelling lineup of brightly colored evening suits in shades of saturated yellow, fuchsia, and orange. Slim fitting and sharply cut in silk shantung, they looked exceptional, pointing towards an updated approach, with a zest of chic playfulness: “They’re tailored with a lighter construction, but still maintaining sartorial proportions,” said John Wrazej, executive vice president and creative director of men’s design. “They’re all handmade; it’s our uncompromising way of tailoring. They’re probably among the best suits you can find.” However, speculation is its own creature that continues far longer than is logical or rational. Speculation can drive prices to the stratosphere and often does. Energy stocks during the last Recession were highly speculated. Anything connected with shale or sand oil was way above the fundamentals at times that. Buy this shirt:  Couples that fart together stay together shirt Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Silhouettes were full, and the Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black in other words I will buy this assembly of pieces used to achieve them—what the designer called a “potpourri”—was eclectically and raffishly combined. “What I really wanted to express was the free soul of the artist, and how he creates his own elegance,” said Curradi backstage. “There were elements mixed from the ’90s, the ’80s, and the ’40s.” The result was a collection that did all the hard work in conjuring an aura of insouciant panache so its wearers won’t have to. Salut! Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change. The experimentation doesn’t stop there. For the first time in Geller’s career, he is using sequins on tanks, trousers, and shorts. “I wanted to get myself out of my comfort zone,” he explains. It’s a funny way of putting it; the backs of the sequin garments are actually made of nylon ripstop, so they are comfortable to sit in. Even with a fantastical mood haunting this season, amplified by wigs by Chrystoph Marten, Geller can’t help but be pragmatic. Yes it is a bubble, although most people want to believe it is not. If you study the fundamentals like the Income Statements quarterly for the past 12 quarters you will find that fundamentals are lagging for many of this high-flying companies. If a company has negative earnings, as some tech companies that are being speculated do have negative or declining earnings or revenues or both, then this is considered a bubble. Buy this shirt:  Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt Raincoats were mixed with hunting jackets; bombers were blended with truck tops; sweatshirts joined with leather jackets in new imaginative shapes. Even the Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt but in fact I love this shoes were given a hybridized treatment, with a new sneaker fusing skateboard and basketball styles and mismatched colors. The show finale embraced the uplifting mood, with a futuristic ghetto blaster incorporated into a sleek black backpack. “You can carry it around and have a full, major party anytime, anywhere,” enthused Barrett. Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor named her second menswear collection and first Paris presentation Come As You Are, but lest this instantly leads you to the Nirvana classic, she was tapping into a state of mind. “When your intention is not so much to impress with your dressing, but much more about daring to express your style,” she explained. Sandor elaborated that vacations are most conducive to this, as you’re usually less preoccupied with how others perceive you. And so, from a school courtyard that evoked a private oasis in Rome, male models (and a few girls, too) looked to be on a holiday that might have taken place in the 1950s, only on closer inspection, their outfits were all updated and very much urban in attitude. The main giveaway: her recalibrated volumes—jackets were slouchier and sportier, shorts signaled city rather than the beach, and the styling felt pleasingly off-the-cuff. Beyond this, batik and woodblock digital prints had a convincing handmade touch and brought liveliness to certain looks that otherwise leaned too beige. “Bohemian minimalist,” was how the Budapest-based designer put it. Sandor has been sustainability-minded since the beginning, and her application of vegan leather to tailoring was a justified point of pride. Given the finesse of the pants, shirt, and windbreaker-style jacket in feel and in fit she could push even further into the category and make it a real signature. The jacket in crocheted leather, for now just a prototype, would suggest she’ll have more to show off next season, whether or not she returns to Paris. The outfits she wore for her wedding were gorgeous and are probably amongst everyone’s favorites. However, I think that 90% of her outfits are elegant so it’s really difficult to choose. Narrowed it down to these three. Every color really suits her but my favourite is the light blue outfit, I think she looks stunning. would rely on my radiant beauty to make them swoon at my feet. I haven’t tried a ball gown before. A wedding dress, once, when I did a Madonna impersonation for a spoof of “Like a Virgin.” Nobody who watched that was capable of combat for several minutes thereafter. I bet I’d be even more devastating in a gown. You are in a ball gown at an event when it is attacked by enemy soldiers. What will you do since you are in the ball gown with no time to change, fight in it or rip some parts Buy this shirt:  Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Fashion and music have always gone together. For Nicholas Daley, though, the AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Furthermore, I will do this relationship between the two is especially symbiotic. His parents one Scottish, the other Jamaican ran a reggae club in the late 1970s and ’80s, so the designer was raised on a diet of dub, roots, and culture, and all the swaggering style that came with that. Since he launched his namesake label in 2015, Daley has incorporated a musical component into his presentations, usually intimate affairs. Staged in the lofty St. Mary-at-Hill Church in the financial district of London, his show this evening was his most ambitious and impressive to date. To set the tone, Daley invited the British jazz band Sons of Kemet for a jam session. Performances at fashion shows are nothing new, but it is rare to see musicians walk the runway while playing their instruments. Bandleader Shabaka Hutchings opened the show saxophone in hand, dressed in orange-and-brown cargo pants and a matching utility vest layered over a mesh tank. His bandmates followed shortly behind him, including the tuba player Theon Cross, who swept in wearing a poncho and Irish linen shorts. Daley is a stickler for details, down to the incense that’s custom-formulated in Japan to fit the vibe of each show. The clothes were just as considered, with cowrie shells hand-threaded through the eyelets of sneakers and charming knitted satchels. Speaking after the show, Daley took pride in underscoring the fact that he produces in the United Kingdom. As far as bigger-picture inspiration goes, all roads led back to the Sun Ra Arkestra. The hugely influential American jazz group has always had a dedicated following, but lately, its Afrofuturism vision has been resonating in mainstream culture with movies such as Black Panther and artists like Janelle Monae. The New Model Army, raised by parliament was the first professional army in England (professional units had existed prior to this) so much of their equipment, including uniform, was standardized. This is not exactly the redcoat of the British Empire but it’s where it started. Also, as the musket became the main battlefield weapon, identification of troops, at a distance, became critical. As I mentioned, from the mid 17th century onwards identification on the battlefield became increasingly important and each nation started to pick a color for its infantry. Often cavalry units would have a much wider variety of colors which probably reflected their generally higher level of wealth, as units, and perceived higher social standing. (Wellington said something along the lines that cavalry were merely there to make a battle look presentable). Buy this shirt:  AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt 2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt We’re desperately in need of a scale against which to measure brands’ sustainability; in the 2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt moreover I love this meantime, there’s always the test of time. “I think the comment I hear most,” said Norma Kamali, “is, ‘Oh, I still have your…[whatever].’ It really does make me feel great to think [that something I designed a long time ago] is still in their wardrobe.” Kamali’s catalog is so large and so adaptable, if she didn’t get bored easily, she could just rest on her laurels. Timing is an art, and of late, many of the designer’s rereleases are dictated by which of her vintage pieces are trending on Instagram; hence the reappearance of the Puli jumpsuit (Look 59) for Spring. Last Fall, Kamali revisited her “Modern Sculpture” dress—a tube separated from its connected sleeves by giant round cutouts sort of like a Henry Moore sculpture. Beyoncé and her team saw it and ordered customized versions for the “Spirit” video shot for The Lion King. It’s back for Spring as a dress, top, and jumpsuit, and in new fabrications. Speaking of art, Kamali has updated her parachute coat with metallic silver nylon that is almost as shiny as one of Jeff Koons’s reflective pieces. We talk a lot in the office about adapting swimwear for city life. Kamali, who is noted for her skills in this area, makes it easy with bra tops and other convertible pieces (another signature). For the daring, there are nude-illusion options; more covered but also chic are her “diaper” bottoms, first popularized by Claire McCardell in the 1940s. Kamali is still going strong with gender-fluid design “I think it’s becoming more and more real every season,” she noted and she photographed her Spring 2020 collection in two sessions, one on women, the other on men, some of whom are employees. The latter were invited to bring their own accessories and to choose and style any pieces they like. They selected their own poses as well. “They all chose this [wrap] dress,” Kamali noted, “and it’s very funny because it’s a dress I did in the ’70s, and it was the first dress that guys ever bought from me.” Good design, apparently, has no expiration date. “Clothes,” states Kamali, “have to function, but they also have to make you happy.” The empire didn’t exist when the English army started to wear red. The British army could be called the British army, and not the English army by the end of the 17th century. However red comes about due to the English civil war and the parliament’s “New Model Army” which was formed in 1645. Buy this shirt:  2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Sander Lak made his official menswear debut from an upper hall of the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt and I love this Opéra Bastille, where the stunning view out to Paris was nearly panoramic. It was a not-so-subtle reminder that today’s show also marked his first outside of New York, where he is now among the brightest stars of the city’s Fashion Week. Scheduled after Loewe and before Thom Browne, Lak presented both the men’s Fall capsule, now available to buy; the new Spring collection; plus some womenswear and if you didn’t know any better, you’d assume Sies Marjan has been on the Paris calendar all along. “There are an elevation and tougher competitive spirit in Paris; but in the end, I was just thinking about what is the best work I can make the most beautiful version of whatever it is I’m trying to translate,” he said, with impressive composure. That “whatever” was expressed by Erykah Badu’s “I Want You,” an extra-long track from 2003 that oozes anxious longing and intensifying soul. It could also be felt in rounded expanses of male décolleté, outerwear spanning skin tones, knitwear underpinnings, and tied waists that could be undone with a single pull. That “whatever” was Lak addressing male sexuality in a highly nuanced way. “What can you show off the male body that isn’t necessarily porn or sex or gay or straight?” he said. “It’s this idea of nudity while fully dressed.” In parallel, though, he also seemed determined to give the pieces a more elevated positioning. Chromatic leather jackets some embossed with a croc-effect unstructured trench coat in deep hues and sensuous constructions of silk not unlike his women’s designs got this point across. Lak, in any case, wasn’t making a radical statement for this coming out so much as a deeply personal one. “I put everything into my work, and it’s about having to expose yourself.” It’s rare to hear a designer discuss his or her own emotional vulnerability in the moments before or after a show; and yet this is what gives Sies Marjan a resonance beyond his sumptuous explorations of texture or color. Now if we have ascertained that 110 million dollars of spending have occurred in the current year, that doesn’t mean we have determined that we have a 110 million dollars in currency, because a given amount of money can be used for spending over and over. In fact the proper way to calculate the amount of spending is the take the average number of times each unit of the money supply is used for spending in that year (the velocity of money V) times the face value of the total amount of money in the money supply Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl LIV Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt The Australian pearls strung around the Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt also I will do this necks of Justin O’Shea’s models were absolute whoppers but nothing compared to the size of the balls required to wear this collection. With SSS World Corp, O’Shea is presenting a wardrobe for a specific slice of masculinity of which he is 100 percent a member. Totally (apparently) self-confident, highly body-conscious, and at least in gesture hedonistically inclined, it’s probably a great place to be. It also helps if you have a beard. Some of O’Shea’s models were so O’Shea-like you momentarily suspected they were O’Shea. Any guests enjoying an afternoon moment in the suites above us would have been startled by the “Ace of Spades”–topped soundtrack that rattled around the courtyard garden of the Ritz as the guys rolled across the grass, all barrel-chested braggadocio, in the opening section of suiting. Cut in purposefully early ’80s tones of mink and brown and sometimes patterned by jacquard or enhanced by piping or sequin at the lapel, these were cut high-skirted to display the result of all those squat reps and protein shakes and featured a flared pant shape. Once our bad boys had finished their sartorial strut, they retired to the boudoir in a peignoir featuring Motörhead’s longhorn Satanic skull logo (a collab piece) before re-emerging in a tracksuit or series of short-short and cabana jacket ensembles teamed with the same pimpily color-clashed loafer and hosiery combos from the first time around. One of these featured a very cheeky license-plate print whose registrations listed some of the inspirations O’Shea had turned to when building this collection, including American Gigolo–era Giorgio Armani. Come the close and O’Sheathe real O’Shea at last emerged, on Harley-Davidson’s long-developed first ever all-electric motorcycle, the LiveWire, which looked pretty fantastic. Speaking pre-show about Motörhead’s inimitable lead singer Lemmy, O’Shea had said: “His ideology was very much in line with that of Triple S. It’s like ‘I’m just going to whatever I want and whatever happens is fine and just that’s the way it’s going to be.’ And that’s a great idea of life.” Not wrong. If one decided to measure all wealth on the wealth axis in “real” terms, then the “inflation adjusted value” or “buying power” or “real value” of the savings that is the preservation of investment would be different than when it was first spent. It would still be the same money, in the same amount. but that same money would be worth less in “real” terms at the end of the given time period, than at the beginning, if prices changed over that period, i.e., if there was inflation. This is because inflation is actually a measure of what really did happen, not what the system of two independent variables allows to be described. They take a known amount of spending and total wealth sold at one point in time, and compare it to a known amount of spending and known about of total wealth sold, at another point in time. Notice that is measuring only wealth sold, not all wealth. That is where inflation fits in. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Super Bowl Champions t-shirt Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt In keeping with the Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt Furthermore, I will do this festive, uplifting mood embedded in the house of McCartney, both collections were presented tonight during Milan Men’s opening day with a party in the enchanting garden of an old Milanese palazzo. But the event had a provocative edge: Models mingled with a collective of young activists performing a peaceful protest and chanting slogans on climate change awareness. Ribbons made of upcycled archival materials were flowing in the wind and could be personalized with messages for loved ones; they’ll be donated to a local design school to make sure that there’ll be zero waste. McCartney was radiant: “If you want to buy something these days, buy something that isn’t killing your planet!” she said. “If you have a fashion platform, if you have a voice, take responsibility and do something more than just a pretty color or a pretty hemline right now. It’s time to do something.” It’s simply not possible to disagree with her call to action. Together they came up with the round pattern of a sun, which became Resort’s distinctive print: “It’s the circular weather, it’s the clouds, it’s the rain; the sun is breathing, blowing wind,” said McCartney. “But it’s also a little bit trippy, a little bit ’90s, a sort of dance-trance vibe.” Stefan Cooke and his partner Jake Burt have been so applauded since they stepped onto the fashion stage that they’ve had a funny sensation that they’re still role-playing the part of what “designers” are meant to be. The spotlight trained on what Cooke and Burt do is well deserved: the believable young masculinity their collections portray, its basis in inventing techniques that recast the structure of familiar garments like the wonder they bring to the humble argyle sweater and their playful knack for trompe l’oeil prints. All this, and a precocious talent for creating stuff that is so clearly wearable. So, anyway: The wunderkind double act thought about backstage theater and costume as a theme for the first stand-alone Stefan Cooke show. “Really, it goes back to costume, to acting to us learning how to be someone over the last 15 months,” said Burt. “It’s like us, really, people think you’re a certain way,” Cooke added. “And the reality is, we’re still living in a flat with two other graduates.” Total wealth, a measure of wealth, and net production could be measured any way you want, in “nominal” or “real” terms. Since wealth is measured on a different axis, even though savings that is the preservation of investment is a nominal measure, the measure of wealth doesn’t have to be. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs LIV 2021 Super Bowl Champions shirt Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt It goes without saying that Stella McCartney is a passionate nature lover, so what better way to have a conversation with her than in a lush, quiet garden in Milan’s city center, surrounded by magnolias, wisterias climbing around trees, and chirping birds? “Let’s just forget fashion for a moment and savor all the Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt and I love this natural beauty around us and talk about flowers!” she said. Flowers were actually very much part of her Resort collection, which she named Forces For Nature. Hand-drawn bouquets were printed on light cloqué summer dresses in delicate tones of peony, wisteria, and primrose, as if they had just been picked up in a field or in a bluebell wood in spring, during one of the weekends she loves to spend in the countryside with her family. “It’s always the best time,” she said. It also goes without saying that McCartney isn’t afraid of challenges: “I’m a big believer in change,” she said. “When something is getting too comfortable, I tend to feel uncomfortable.” Her company is undergoing a sort of mutation, becoming independent after having to be part of the Kering Group for so many years. It’s an energizing time for the designer her pioneering work on sustainable fashion has set the bar high for the industry, not only helping to raise awareness but also showing that sustainability and a healthy business can go together. For Resort, her approach has become more overt: “Normally you don’t see what we do in terms of manufacturing conscientiousness,” she explained. “All the efforts we make in doing what we do are in the product, not on the product. This season I wanted to make it more visible.” Enter Everything Is Illuminated’s best-selling author Jonathan Safran Foer, who, feeling a kindred spirit in McCartney, sent her his book Eating Animals a few years ago. “I was blown away,” she said. A friendship ensued and now a collaboration, which has been years in the making. Safran Foer has a new book called We Are The Weather which will be out in September: “So I said to Jonathan, ‘Why don’t I put into fashion what it is you’re putting into words?” Just a comment that for total wealth on the wealth axis, one can try to value it by estimating the value of each part of the wealth to get one number, or one can divide it up like an inventory and try to value each category. Net production then might be an accounting of what the current period of economic activity would do to each category, instead of having net production just being a positive or negative number added to or subtracted from total wealth. Buy this shirt:  Kansas City Chiefs Champions Kelce Mahomes and Hill shirt I’m Nacho Valentine shirt So what was going on with the I’m nacho Valentine shirt What’s more,I will buy this black felt fireman hats, old-school police hats, and jockey caps? Why did so many models wear waistcoats that looked like they’d been forcibly wrenched to the left of the body in a bar fight? And the kangaroo pocket pleat-bib shirt smocks? What was with Mickey Mouse? Does Tom Ford say long johns are an outerwear option now when did you get that memo? “This is all just my style,” said Takahiro Miyashita, his expression obliquely refracted through his John Lennon glasses after this interesting show. The collection seemed to be a kind of imaginative boyhood view of tropes of uniform the clothes that authority figures wear all messed up by a purposely blurred focus. There was a heavy gestalt feeling at play, yet the parts that made up the sum were in fact the meat and potatoes of this richly blended stew of auto-referential menswear. This was a collection based upon the aspirations of manhood we aspire to when immature, eroded by the knowledge gained through maturity. It was about lost love squandered and idiocy. Yes, it was also about a collaboration with Converse that introduced a new pimp-soled postmodern expression of Chuck. The collection was called Duet, but it was really a series of duets between Miyashita and his references. Between them, they created a handsome, soaring chorus in which the disappointment inherent in aspiring to fit into the uniform of masculine codes and then falling short of their impossible standards, hung long and slow in the air. Miyashita called this “a love song for fashion” and it was real love, true love, tough love. With externally worn underwear baring your soul, Soloist style. Textile company Albini collaborated with the designers to create a deckchair-striped cotton poplin which had a vaguely penitentiary feeling in all-over outfits for men. And then there was that catnip slogan tank-tee. It was taken directly from the shirt in a photo by Stanley Stellar of an attendee at 1995’s Wigstock Festival in New York, and those inverted-commas so hot right now made it especially funny. But if this show represented “fashion” or just fashion in Milan this afternoon, then it was pretty hard to hate. The first part, the savings that is the preservation of investment does not represent any change in the level of wealth. Reducing spending will not, in and of itself, cause any reduction in the level of wealth. This is because whether a given amount of money is used for spending or not, it still exists in the same amount at the end of the given time period. Buy this shirt:  I’m Nacho Valentine shirt I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt The canopy-free parasols were a meteorologically ironic insertion into this typically sumptuous Thom Browne show, given the I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt Also,I will get this punishing heat in the glass-roof École des Beaux-Arts this afternoon. They were just one small part of a theatrical runway fantasy, in which Browne—recast as Monsieur Brun in his show notes imagined himself as a host at what he called a Versailles country club. Playing Brun was no less than James Whiteside, one of American Ballet Theatre’s principal dancers, who emerged palely powdered with ceruse and tricolor blue bee-stung lips, wearing a high-cut seersucker tutu. He cut a marvelous swath as he prepared for his garden party. This involved overseeing the preparation of 10 “statues,” which were in fact 10 very game models clad in horizontally enormous 2-D trompe l’oeil renderings of the 3-D outfits worn beneath them, which were short suits in various shades of seersucker accessorized with seersucker footballs, basketballs, and baseballs. They were shod in black and white brogued basketballs topped by pulled-high mismatched sports socks. Their outfits were revealed by attendants in sport shorts, pointy-toe corespondent shoes, and Browne-skinny jackets whose skirts barely brushed the matching codpiece/jockstrap also worn below. All this, mind you, before the first look of the collection. Browne’s guests strode onto his metaphorical lawn with more correspondents, these with a curved 2 inches or so exposed inset heel that elevated the ball of the foot above the flat sole beneath it. The outfits, like the latticed football helmet worn by one of the attendants, made lavish use of the wide-to-each-side silhouette created by Marie Antoinette era pannier dresses. In the pieces adorned with prep-staple marine patching, there was another irony in the fashion interplay of whale and whalebone (happily, though, no whale tail). Against that broadening, Ying tugged the narrowing yang of corsetry, from which were suspended literally drop-waist skirts. Pretty much everything was seersucker, sometimes patched, sometimes fringed, sometimes embroidered but always seersucker. Buy this shirt:  I used to be Married but I’m better now Valentine shirt I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt If the I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt and I will buy this term seersucker suit makes you cringe, Snyder’s solid mauve version will easily change your mind; in fact, you may not even recognize it as seersucker. Without the usual country club stripes, it has a great, crumbly texture, and is light and crisp enough to wear in August. Snyder even made a black seersucker tuxedo, with the lapels and waistband in lustrous satin. A particularly irreverent groom might wear it to his wedding as it was styled here: with Birkenstock sandals. Titled The Ride, Tod’s Spring collection revolved around the idea of dynamism, speed, and movement, taking elements from the world of travel streamlined to a minimalist approach, suggesting urban velocity without any literal references. A sense of lightness was underlined throughout, with featherweight leather taking center stage and technical sporty fabrics treated with agility and ease. A new version of the leather biker was the collection’s pièce de résistance, cut lean and sleek, with a double-striped motif in contrasting colors running on the sides in keeping with Tod’s recurring signature graphics. A utilitarian approach was there in a technical multi-pocketed vest and field jackets; a safari jacket and a soft suede car coat in earth tones introduced a feel of far-away, exotic landscapes. Playing on contrasts, a more tailored offering provided an alternative to the collection’s overall sporty vibe, introducing an elegant urban feel with a playful preppy touch. Checkered jacquard was used as an all-over motif for a three-piece city ensemble of matching blazer, pants, and duster. Suits were cut with a regular fit and classic proportions, the most covetable being an indigo mixed-wool double-breasted example mimicking a denim texture. A new sneaker capsule kept Tod’s shoe selection up-to-date, while the famous Gommino was given a new lease of life with a wrap-around rubber shell enveloping the super-soft loafer. In the macroeconomy, we have spent, of a certain amount, creating income for the recipients of that spending in the same amount. This is gross income, as we are including all transfers of ownership of money for a purpose. And the accounting of this spending does not describe in any way shape or form any change in the level of wealth since all it describes is wealth in the form of money having its ownership be transferred from one person or entity to another. And we have added another element to the definition of the savings I am calling “net production” that does describe changes in type and amounts of wealth. Buy this shirt:  I sew a piece of my heart into every quilt I make shirt I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt Todd Snyder was the I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt In addition,I will do this head of men’s design at J.Crew in 2008 when the brand opened its “Liquor Store” on a quiet corner in Tribeca. It was a bar turned men’s shop that quickly became a destination for the younger, cooler, more downtown kind of J.Crew guy. In retrospect, it was also an early indicator of experiential retail. With its velvet furniture, dark wood paneling, and vintage chandeliers, it was a place you could actually, you know, hang out—and maybe pick up a cashmere sweater or varsity jacket, too. When Snyder heard the store was closing earlier this year, he called the owner, presented his ideas for revamping the shop, and eventually signed a lease. Buy this shirt:  I asked god to make me a better man he sent me my son I asked god for an angel daughter vintage shirt I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt The show ended with a series of Hilfiger Collection looks that included all the I am a grumpy old lady I am allergic to stupidity shirt But I will love this designer’s most beloved preppy motifs: Bermuda shorts, nautical prints, Oxford stripes, and of course the Star-Spangled Banner. Even still, the brand is charting new territory where it counts: 75% of the collection was made using more sustainable production methods, including organic cotton, recycled fabric, and low-impact denim washes. With his 35th anniversary on the horizon, Tommy Hilfiger is in a retrospective mood. For Spring 2020, the brand’s original crest was writ large on classic striped button-downs and archival pieces that have been updated in time for the celebrations, including cream and white varsity jacket. Peek inside one of the reissued men’s peacoats and you’ll find a refresher on the provenance of that distinctive 1985 motif, a combination of lion, laurel, and sword, printed on the lining. For millennial men and women drawn to the designer’s throwback styles, this will be a succinct lesson in fashion history. Preppy values remain at the heart of what Hilfiger does—the label’s logo is a riff on traditional sailing flags, after all. The most compelling reworkings of those codes came through in the collection’s nautical bent, in charming maritime scarf dresses tied with ribbon, flag-print pajama suits, and seafaring parkas. Red, white, and blue have always been the core colors in the designer’s vision of sportswear, and there were stars and stripes of every kind woven through his new offering, starting with a graphic star-spangled navy and white midi skirt and ending with a traditional American flag sweater. There on the rail, tucked alongside that fleshy pink zebra jacquard jacket, were the items IRL. A quick going over established that even though these looked like yoga pants, they were, more strictly, pieces of long-legged underwear—the button-free fly detail made this abundantly clear. Ford, sadly, was not present at this presentation, but he had provided the next best thing: a Ford-penned press release brimming with cogitations upon the season ahead. There, near the bottom, was the key decree: “Long underwear in abstract camouflage prints is worn as casualwear and replaces the training pant this season.” Boom. In one apparently nonchalant sentence, Tom Ford might just have empowered long johns as outerwear. Don’t believe it? Past form suggests that what Tom says, goes. Welcome to the 2020s. Keynes realized that the best type of spending is the type of spending that directly pays for activities that produce more wealth. But he also realized, that if such spending were not forthcoming, and we were at less than full employment, that any spending increase, via its multiplier effect will still lead to increased production. Buy this shirt:  I am a Grumpy old lady I am Allergic to stupidity shirt Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt It feels really personal to me,” said Robert Cavalli of his Florentine dandy-meets–British punk Spring collection. Indeed. What’s more personal than staging a presentation at your mother’s home? If the Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this mother in question is Eva Cavalli, then expect the home to be lavish. Her Florentine apartment, ensconced in a noble palazzo in the heart of the old city, boasts a magnificent secret garden, lush with century-old trees overlooking an ancient monastery and a church. Models and guests were lounging on the lawns, seemingly without a care in the world. At his label Triple RRR, the young designer is honing a languid aesthetic infused with an underground vibe. He has a penchant for a decadent Renaissance mood and favors opulence of fabrications and flamboyant yet elegant silhouettes, which he undercuts with irreverence and a flair for subversion. His signature robes de chambre in silk satin were worn over denim and with combat boots, and strict British-inspired tailoring was smoothed with almost feminine accents, as in ribbon belts cinching the waists of elongated blazers. Slender suits were given a sensuous finish via sumptuous mauve silk moiré, while a Prince of Wales jacquard suit was printed with red tigers and esoteric symbols. A little homage to Vivienne Westwood never hurts. It’s well known that the Cavalli family is fond of keeping a menagerie of exotic animals as domestic pets (think snakes, monkeys, iguanas); the young Robert doesn’t stray from tradition. He drew inspiration from his 25-year-old parakeet, Tommaso, the presentation’s guest of honor, whose colorful plumage was reproduced as a painterly print on a denim jacket and matching pants, or on a liquid silk robe coat, worn with a pale blue metallic leather biker. But beyond his family legacy, Cavalli is carving a place for himself in the fashion arena. If he keeps true to his quite personal mix of romantic, sensual rebelliousness, it’ll be interesting to follow his label’s future steps. So this shows Keynes’ awareness that in reality spending does not represent the depletion of wealth. He realized that the solution for production shortages in a situation where we have un- or underutilized resources, (including un- or underemployed people), is to increase spending, not to decrease spending. He realized that the increased spending will, for the most, part lead to increased employment of resources and increased net production of wealth. He showed that in such a situation, due to the effect of producing new wealth and preserving current wealth, increased spending can cause increased total wealth, and a higher standard of living, and improved quality of life. Buy this shirt:  Hockey talks mental health awareness Pittsburgh shirt Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt The flow of fashion culture from the Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt also I will do this West to the male youth of Asia turned in the opposite direction in Katie Chung’s Spring collection. Based in Seoul, the epicenter of a generation of clued-up, hyper stylish boys, she brought the energy of City Pop, a cult style and music revival, to her show in Paris. “City Pop took off in Japan in the ’70s and ’80s, when the economy was booming. Kids looked to American lifestyles in Miami, L.A., and Hawaii and wanted some of it. They invented this whole jazz-electronic New Wave fusion of their own, with a beach-in-the-city look and Hockney-like posters,” she explained. “For a long time, people thought it was uncool. Now kids have started listening to it again there’s a whole underground City Pop thing going on. But,” she added, “of course, every revival looks different boys are wearing it in their own modern way.”Chung turned it out as a merge of Hawaiian palm-tree shirts, tie-dye, and ’40s-’70s Deco prints, layered into the kind of tailoring you see lanky groups of Korean boys wearing around Seoul Fashion Week. K-pop standards of male fashion-consciousness have upped the ante on dressing well throughout Asia. Wooyoungmi’s long track record in tailoring fits right in with that specific thirst for innovation—Chung’s oversize brown-and-white-checked shorts suit with a matching coat; her elongated jackets with wide fluid pants. The latter silhouette is the trend of the season in Paris menswear, of course. Hawaiian shirts too. That eye for what’s right is applicable internationally. although Woolrich has yet to secure the necessary city permits, the plan is that its soon-to-open New York store will feature a “weather room” in which shoppers will be able to test-drive garments in temperatures as low as minus 20 degrees Celsius. Florence right now and New York in August (when that store opens its doors) seem like ideal locations for a walk-in refrigerator such as that planned by creative director Andrea Cane. As Stefano Saccone, the company’s newly installed CEO observed over a slice of pizza post-presentation, Woolrich is “a big Q4 business”  which is executive for “It sells like crazy when the weather turns nasty.” Buy this shirt:  Hello Darkness my old friend I’ve come to drink with you again shirt Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Photos of a Yohji Yamamoto lineup never capture the Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt in contrast I will get this degree of details printed words, an artistic embellishment that you will discover on the clothes up close. Only when poking around backstage after today’s show did the text “I hold you, you hold me” reveal itself on a loose-fitting shirt. The designer, too, usually doles out his thoughts judiciously, as though being forced to explain himself not only demystifies the process but goes against the interpretative aspect of what he creates. Today, he reiterated his fear of an impending climate crisis, as well as his view that gender distinctions in menswear and womenswear have all but evaporated. These talking points manifested as ultra-relaxed ensembles, some bearing near-nonexistent landscapes. Masculine workwear jackets superimposed on suiting were interspersed with more ambiguous silhouettes, namely a dashing duo of full-length windbreakers in deep blue and yellow, worn like dresses. One of the two shirts styled overtop was marked up with the words mother f well, you get the idea. Compared with the humble raw cotton and signature black gabardine, a black velvet grouping introduced a certain grandeur especially those pieces covered in pseudo-historical heraldic emblems. Yamamoto said he experimented with these purely because he wanted to an aesthetic indulgence, essentially. In that vein, some pieces could have been spared the myriad zippered vents and excess bands. If nothing more, they were a reminder that he is not a minimalist. Yamamoto’s approach seemed less conceptual this season, and his commentary was correspondingly direct. “The earth is going to be crazy, really crazy,” he said. “I’m afraid the earth is going to die.” Did he think he would see this in his lifetime? “No, maybe our children and grandchildren.” And yet this wasn’t necessarily an exercise in fatalism. The pair of hands on the side of a garment were they signaling some sort of diplomatic handshake or a more affectionate clasp? “Both,” he replied. So we have a quandary: How can we have an economic theory that does not describe changes in the level of wealth? The fact is, that in typical explanations of the Savings equals Investment identity, one might come across in economics courses, it is implied that somehow this Savings that equals investment DOES include changes in the level of wealth. And that, I believe, is not only not true, it has led to all sorts of confusion. After thinking about this, I realized, that the expression for savings needed an additional element if it was going to include any changes in the level of wealth, I had to do just that. I had to add changes in level of wealth to the expression for savings. Buy this shirt:  Heart face mask dabbing happy Valentine’s Day 2021 shirt Couples that fart together stay together shirt “My Mexican-ness is very abstract,” said Rick Owens shortly before presenting this show. Titled Tecuatl after his maternal grandmother’s maiden name Owens’s mother hails from Puebla and is of Mixtec heritage this collection was the Couples that fart together stay together shirt besides I will buy this first time he has used his work as a lens through which to explore his south-of-the-border roots. As he said at the top, however, Owens’s relationship with those roots is abstract and that abstraction was reflected in the collection. One prosaic reason for this is he only revisited his mother’s homeland this year, for the first time in 30. Another is that just as in the last-season cycle of awesome Larry LeGaspi shows his themes are, ultimately, just one of the raw materials in a creative clay that is every season shaped by his design and in his own image. Zippered jumpsuits, some half-worn to optimize ab exposure, looked toughly utilitarian, while short-hemmed tailored jackets in white snakeskin over low-neck loose T-shirts and white sequined zippered pants appeared twistedly slick especially when teamed with a pompadour. According to Josef Albers, “in art, tradition is to create, not to revive,” and in this highly artful collection, we saw an outstanding expression of the tradition in clothing created by Owens. Purple Label is Ralph Lauren’s jewel in the crown, a cultivated exercise in fine tailoring, where a quintessential sense of ease is infused with sophisticated polish. A palette of soft tonal colors, a slightly vintage insouciance, a fluidity of fit and balance of proportions come to mind when thinking of Purple Label’s signature aesthetic. Yet at today’s presentation at the label’s sumptuous Milanese headquarters, what stood out was a gorgeous, visually compelling lineup of brightly colored evening suits in shades of saturated yellow, fuchsia, and orange. Slim fitting and sharply cut in silk shantung, they looked exceptional, pointing towards an updated approach, with a zest of chic playfulness: “They’re tailored with a lighter construction, but still maintaining sartorial proportions,” said John Wrazej, executive vice president and creative director of men’s design. “They’re all handmade; it’s our uncompromising way of tailoring. They’re probably among the best suits you can find.” However, speculation is its own creature that continues far longer than is logical or rational. Speculation can drive prices to the stratosphere and often does. Energy stocks during the last Recession were highly speculated. Anything connected with shale or sand oil was way above the fundamentals at times that. Buy this shirt:  Couples that fart together stay together shirt Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Silhouettes were full, and the Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black in other words I will buy this assembly of pieces used to achieve them—what the designer called a “potpourri”—was eclectically and raffishly combined. “What I really wanted to express was the free soul of the artist, and how he creates his own elegance,” said Curradi backstage. “There were elements mixed from the ’90s, the ’80s, and the ’40s.” The result was a collection that did all the hard work in conjuring an aura of insouciant panache so its wearers won’t have to. Salut! Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change. The experimentation doesn’t stop there. For the first time in Geller’s career, he is using sequins on tanks, trousers, and shorts. “I wanted to get myself out of my comfort zone,” he explains. It’s a funny way of putting it; the backs of the sequin garments are actually made of nylon ripstop, so they are comfortable to sit in. Even with a fantastical mood haunting this season, amplified by wigs by Chrystoph Marten, Geller can’t help but be pragmatic. Yes it is a bubble, although most people want to believe it is not. If you study the fundamentals like the Income Statements quarterly for the past 12 quarters you will find that fundamentals are lagging for many of this high-flying companies. If a company has negative earnings, as some tech companies that are being speculated do have negative or declining earnings or revenues or both, then this is considered a bubble. Buy this shirt:  Shar Pei Couple Valentine Fall Tee Shirts Black Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt Raincoats were mixed with hunting jackets; bombers were blended with truck tops; sweatshirts joined with leather jackets in new imaginative shapes. Even the Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt but in fact I love this shoes were given a hybridized treatment, with a new sneaker fusing skateboard and basketball styles and mismatched colors. The show finale embraced the uplifting mood, with a futuristic ghetto blaster incorporated into a sleek black backpack. “You can carry it around and have a full, major party anytime, anywhere,” enthused Barrett. Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor named her second menswear collection and first Paris presentation Come As You Are, but lest this instantly leads you to the Nirvana classic, she was tapping into a state of mind. “When your intention is not so much to impress with your dressing, but much more about daring to express your style,” she explained. Sandor elaborated that vacations are most conducive to this, as you’re usually less preoccupied with how others perceive you. And so, from a school courtyard that evoked a private oasis in Rome, male models (and a few girls, too) looked to be on a holiday that might have taken place in the 1950s, only on closer inspection, their outfits were all updated and very much urban in attitude. The main giveaway: her recalibrated volumes—jackets were slouchier and sportier, shorts signaled city rather than the beach, and the styling felt pleasingly off-the-cuff. Beyond this, batik and woodblock digital prints had a convincing handmade touch and brought liveliness to certain looks that otherwise leaned too beige. “Bohemian minimalist,” was how the Budapest-based designer put it. Sandor has been sustainability-minded since the beginning, and her application of vegan leather to tailoring was a justified point of pride. Given the finesse of the pants, shirt, and windbreaker-style jacket in feel and in fit she could push even further into the category and make it a real signature. The jacket in crocheted leather, for now just a prototype, would suggest she’ll have more to show off next season, whether or not she returns to Paris. The outfits she wore for her wedding were gorgeous and are probably amongst everyone’s favorites. However, I think that 90% of her outfits are elegant so it’s really difficult to choose. Narrowed it down to these three. Every color really suits her but my favourite is the light blue outfit, I think she looks stunning. would rely on my radiant beauty to make them swoon at my feet. I haven’t tried a ball gown before. A wedding dress, once, when I did a Madonna impersonation for a spoof of “Like a Virgin.” Nobody who watched that was capable of combat for several minutes thereafter. I bet I’d be even more devastating in a gown. You are in a ball gown at an event when it is attacked by enemy soldiers. What will you do since you are in the ball gown with no time to change, fight in it or rip some parts Buy this shirt:  Banker noun ruthless scumbag who will eat your lunch shirt AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Fashion and music have always gone together. For Nicholas Daley, though, the AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt Furthermore, I will do this relationship between the two is especially symbiotic. His parents one Scottish, the other Jamaican ran a reggae club in the late 1970s and ’80s, so the designer was raised on a diet of dub, roots, and culture, and all the swaggering style that came with that. Since he launched his namesake label in 2015, Daley has incorporated a musical component into his presentations, usually intimate affairs. Staged in the lofty St. Mary-at-Hill Church in the financial district of London, his show this evening was his most ambitious and impressive to date. To set the tone, Daley invited the British jazz band Sons of Kemet for a jam session. Performances at fashion shows are nothing new, but it is rare to see musicians walk the runway while playing their instruments. Bandleader Shabaka Hutchings opened the show saxophone in hand, dressed in orange-and-brown cargo pants and a matching utility vest layered over a mesh tank. His bandmates followed shortly behind him, including the tuba player Theon Cross, who swept in wearing a poncho and Irish linen shorts. Daley is a stickler for details, down to the incense that’s custom-formulated in Japan to fit the vibe of each show. The clothes were just as considered, with cowrie shells hand-threaded through the eyelets of sneakers and charming knitted satchels. Speaking after the show, Daley took pride in underscoring the fact that he produces in the United Kingdom. As far as bigger-picture inspiration goes, all roads led back to the Sun Ra Arkestra. The hugely influential American jazz group has always had a dedicated following, but lately, its Afrofuturism vision has been resonating in mainstream culture with movies such as Black Panther and artists like Janelle Monae. The New Model Army, raised by parliament was the first professional army in England (professional units had existed prior to this) so much of their equipment, including uniform, was standardized. This is not exactly the redcoat of the British Empire but it’s where it started. Also, as the musket became the main battlefield weapon, identification of troops, at a distance, became critical. As I mentioned, from the mid 17th century onwards identification on the battlefield became increasingly important and each nation started to pick a color for its infantry. Often cavalry units would have a much wider variety of colors which probably reflected their generally higher level of wealth, as units, and perceived higher social standing. (Wellington said something along the lines that cavalry were merely there to make a battle look presentable). Buy this shirt:  AFC Divisional Browns vs Chiefs January 17 2021 shirt 2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt We’re desperately in need of a scale against which to measure brands’ sustainability; in the 2021 Super Bowl Kansas City Chiefs we will bring it home shirt moreover I love this meantime, there’s always the test of time. “I think the comment I hear most,” said Norma Kamali, “is, ‘Oh, I still have your…[whatever].’ It really does make me feel great to think [that something I designed a long time ago] is still in their wardrobe.” Kamali’s catalog is so large and so adaptable, if she didn’t get bored easily, she could just rest on her laurels. Timing is an art, and of late, many of the designer’s rereleases are dictated by which of her vintage pieces are trending on Instagram; hence the reappearance of the Puli jumpsuit (Look 59) for Spring. Last Fall, Kamali revisited her “Modern Sculpture” dress—a tube separated from its connected sleeves by giant round cutouts sort of like a Henry Moore sculpture. Beyoncé and her team saw it and ordered customized versions for the “Spirit” video shot for The Lion King. It’s back for Spring as a dress, top, and jumpsuit, and in new fabrications. Speaking of art, Kamali has updated her parachute coat with metallic silver nylon that is almost as shiny as one of Jeff Koons’s reflective pieces. We talk a lot in the office about adapting swimwear for city life. Kamali, who is noted for her skills in this area, makes it easy with bra tops and other convertible pieces (another signature). For the daring, there are nude-illusion options; more covered but also chic are her “diaper” bottoms, first popularized by Claire McCardell in the 1940s. Kamali is still going strong with gender-fluid design “I think it’s becoming more and more real every season,” she noted and she photographed her Spring 2020 collection in two sessions, one on women, the other on men, some of whom are employees. The latter were invited to bring their own accessories and to choose and style any pieces they like. They selected their own poses as well. “They all chose this [wrap] dress,” Kamali noted, “and it’s very funny because it’s a dress I did in the ’70s, and it was the first dress that guys ever bought from me.” Good design, apparently, has no expiration date. “Clothes,” states Kamali, “have to function, but they also have to make you happy.” The empire didn’t exist when the English army started to wear red. The British army could be called the British army, and not the English army by the end of the 17th century. However red comes about due to the English civil war and the parliament’s “New Model Army” which was formed in 1645. 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